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RH side of engine compartment by firewall
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. remove the drive belt (Serpentine belt)
3. Remove the power steering hose bracket from the alternator bracket.
4. Remove bolts hold alternator to bracket
5. Disconnect the alternator electrical connectors
Remove the rear seat, remove the 4 screws holding the metal cover, and you'll see the top of the fuel tank. The pump module is held in place by a locking ring that can be removed by use of a brass punch and hammer. If the ring is rusted, it'll get damaged during removal and will need replaced. You can get a new ring from Ford. Once the ring is removed, you can pull the pump module out. Remove the small screws from the top of the module and you can pull the top off of the basket to gain access to the fuel pump. Replace the pump and get new fuel pump strainers.
You have a easy problem.
Remove both rear wheels and the 2 philip head screwes either hold a good philips screwdriver hard on to the screws and hit the end of s/driver with a hammer and at the same time twisting to the left (hit about 3 or 4 times )if dosent come undone then get a centre punch and put the pointed end on to the left hand side of the screw and 1 hit will loosing it off if not 2 hits but must be to the l/h/side of screw then ondo it with the s/driver finished unless the drum is also rusted on then hit the drum from behind on the edge a few times to break the rust.
CLEAN UP THE CENTRE OF DRUM WITH A FILE BEFORE REFITTING
That sounds like hard work? Back along I fitted classic struts to mine. how about modifying escort struts and arms, otherwise triumph spitfire bits are available and they make ford hubs for the kit car market, the spit caliper brackets are sperate to the uprights so might be less to machine. I think the MK1 escort uses the same wheel bearings as an Anglia so the hubs and disks will go straight on.
remove the front door pull cup screw
remove the screw cap and screw from inside handle and slide the handle rearward to disengage the hook from the inner sheet metal. disconnect inside handle from latch remote link if manual windows- remove crank with store bought remover tool. Remove the 2 pushpins from the door trim panel using trim tool pry away door panel  fasteners holding panel and push panel in and up . if elect windows disconnect switches
I dont think you have to remove the nut that just frees the cv axle. The rotor is probably rusted on give it a few good hits with a hammer on the front where studs are do not hit brake surface it should free up
The rotor is not held on by the big nut, it slides on and off, only the wheel holds it on, the clearance between the rotor and the front hub which the large nut holds on is very small, rust forms and the rotor gets stuck, use a hammer or a large piece of wood if you plan to reuse the rotor and hit it from side to side, spray penetrating oil to loosen the rust, it is a bugger but it will come loose, then make sure to wire brush all the rust off or wheel retention may be compromised.