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Hello lemofla: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. It is not necessary to remove the rear axle from the differential in order to replace the wheel bearing. This operation does require some special tools and alignment of the car to complete the job. You will need to remove the nut on the axle stub at the rear wheel hub. The rear brakes and spindle unit must be removed. The splash shieldrivets must be drilled out so the shield is not damaged. You will need a press and snap ring pliers in order to remove the bearing hub from the old bearing. Once the hub is removed you will need to press the bearing out of the spindle.When all is reassembled the dust shield should be reattached with new aluminum rivets. Reinstall the spindle and brakes. Torque the axle nut to 221 (ft.lb.). It may also be necessary to push the axle shaft stub out of the hub with a puller as the axle can be stuck. As you can tell this is not a quick fix and does take special equipment. So if you do this yourself PLEASE be careful and pay close attention to the way things came apart and be sure to have the car realigned. Should you not realign the car it will not drive right and you will prematurelydestroy the tire on the side worked on. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
remove the axle stub retaining nut, disconnect the lower ball joint, disconnect the tie rod end, pull the spindle out and away from the axle stub tapping on the end of the stub if necessary with a hammer (just be careful) to pull the bearing hub loose from the axle stub. after separating the outside slide under vehicle (make sure the car is on jack stands and the rear wheels are blocked from rolling and very secure before crawling under any vehicle) look at where the inside axle stub goes into the transmission. you'll need a good sized pry bar to pop the axle out of the transmission. work the pry bar in between the inside axle stub and a good thick part of the transmission and pry the axle away from the trans., there is a snap ring on the inside axle stub that internally retains the axle you have to pry hard enough to compress the snap ring into the axle groove which will release the axle for removal. it's not a bad idea to replace the axle seal in the transmission while you're there but if it's not leaking and you don't damage it in the removal of the axle it's not necessary. measure and compare the new axle to the old one, it may have some differences in the shaft like missing vibration dampeners but if it's the same length and both axle stubs match the old ones in size and number of teeth you should be good. when you install the new axle line it up by hand and slide it in as far as possible manually then tap it in with a wooden or rubber mallet. if you don't have a mallet use a scrap of wood to protect the new axle stub threads and tap it in with a hammer. after you feel the snap ring collapse and the axle slide in tap on it gently to make sure it's fully seated then grab the inner axle stub and tug on it to insure the snap ring is in place. then reassemble in reverse order of removal making sure all nuts and bolts are tightened properly and all retainers are in place. good luck
yes sorry but you know the americans ,they dont do geography and they beleave in flat earth theory ,lose sight of land and the world stops ,yes easy job they are taper bearings on vehicle of this age and easy to change ,hardest part is knocking the bearing paths out ,when i service vehicles and i always take the back drums off to clean and inspect and adjust the auto brake adjuster i always put some engine oil in the dust cap before i refit to keep the grease soft ,anyway dont you know this is a opel not a vauhall -GB doesnt exist anymore across the channel but its a third world religious ethnic state of mohamed .
Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead. Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10 Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or flexible hose.
Pry off the hub grease cap Remove and discard cotter pin pull off castellated nut retainer Remove the hub nut and bearing washer. Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.
Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard. remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups. Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate. Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft. Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub. Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup. Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease. Wash the hub assembly thoroughly. Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly. Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation. Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle. Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut. It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.
Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float. .001-.003" As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions. Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling. Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.
Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification operation of the braking system verified. Reassemble wheel
These are the steps you need to follow for this procedure if you have the proper tools.
Remove front caliper assembly and rotor from the steering knuckle as outlined under "Caliper, Replace" in the "Disc Brake" unit repair section.
Remove hub and bearing to stub axle retaining nut.
Disconnect hub bolts then remove hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle by sliding it straight off end of stub axle. If metal seal on hub and bearing assembly is seized to steering knuckle and becomes dislodged on hub and bearing assembly during removal, or when removing hub and bearing, the finger disc on hub becomes damaged, hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.
If hub and bearing will not slide out of knuckle, insert a prybar between hub and steering knuckle and gently pry hub and bearing from knuckle.
Tighten stub shaft nut, lower vehicle and with brakes applied, torque stub shaft nut to 70 - 90 ft. lbs.
the rear bearing is pressed into the hub so take the hubs off and take to a engineering shop to have the new one pressed in ,now the front ones are similar in as much as they need pressing in and out ,DO NOT TRY TO DO IT WITH A BIG HAMMER ,its dangerous ,remove the wheel trim and slacken the big nut in the middle ,think its a 32mm then jack vehicle up remove the wheel ,undo the brake caliper by the 2 bolts that hold it to the stub axle ,slacken bolt on track rod end but do not remove fully and then wack the end of the stub axle where the track rod end goes through .One good wack with a 1kg hammer will do it on the end of the steering /stub axle shaft without damaging anything because you have left the nut on loose.then remove the bottom track control arm pinch bolt it has a star head and a 17 mm nut on the other end ,use a lengh of scaffold pole or a big crow bar to pull the track control arm down so the ball joint come apart ,take the stub axle off and in the back is a big circlip but leave it alone and just take it to the engineering shop ,its very dangerous to try to remove the bearing with a big hammer and drift because it can and will chip and hit you in the face trust me on this
Tightening torque for the hub nut is 200Nm and the road wheels are 85Nm
The rear wheel bearings are remowned on these cars for sticking to the
stub axle quite badly, and often have to be forced off using a slide
hammer on the drum, it is quite common to end up damaging the wheel
bearing, so be prepared to replace this as well in this event