I notice that if I try to give it too much gas too soon it acts like I am overdoing it, when really I am not. It seems as if its pulling/straining to go at maybe 20 mph. Eventually, it gets up to the speed I want it to (60-70 mph) but it takes some time. What could his be? It's a 1997 Toyota 4-Runner with approx. 258,000 miles.

SOURCE: "95 4 Runner Loss of Power with inclines & engine sputtering

you might just have clogged fuel filter

SOURCE: engine power loss

Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). in this list u will find a answer to ur problem Shaun 2 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Distributor Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor. 5 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 6 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 7 Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or damaged pcv valve. 8 Inspect Air Filter Restricted or clogged air filter. 9 Inspect Catalytic Converter Clogged, damaged, defective or faulty catalytic converter. 10 Inspect Automatic Transmission Improperly adjusted kickdown cable adjustment or internal transmission problems. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 12 Inspect MAP Sensor Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor. 13 Inspect Mass Air Flow Sensor Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor. 14 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit. 15 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. 16 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system.

SOURCE: replace front brake pad 2003 toyota 4 runner

Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers

SOURCE: 2002 toyota 4 runner timing belt change interval

100 000km timing belt light on dash should come on when due