Re: how do i replace a wheel bearing 1998 cavalier
OK. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands!!!
ball joint removal tool (a.k.a.: pickle fork)
checkbook/ credit card/ bank card
friend with a car or another vehicle
I find the best and cheapest way is to buy the bearing and seal(s) and have a shop press it out and in. The bearing and seal(s) are under $100 and the labor for pressing is about $100. If you take it to a shop, it's usually about $500 to $1200 depending.
1) Pull off the wheel and tire
2) Find a socket big enough to take off the cv shaft spindle bolt, and remove the nut(it should be the really big nut in the center of the brake rotor.) you might need help from someone to step on the brakes to keep the wheel from turning. If you can't find anyone, put a prybar between two lug studs and the ground (kinda like playing tic-tac-toe with two studs and the ground)
3) Take off the cotter pin for both the tye rod end (the part that goes into the rack and pinion and makes the wheels turn) and the lower ball joint. You might have to get on the ground to see it.
4) Take off the nuts for the tye rod end and the lower ball joint.
(***Point of no return***: If you don't feel comfortable doing this, stop now and take it to a shop)(or call a friend that knows how to do this) (You will potentially messing with the alignment of the vehicle, maybe)
5) Take the pickle fork and place it between the rubber boot and the steering hub assembly. Tap it with a hammer till it's snug. Now, start hitting the pickle fork till the ball joint pops out. If you get to a point where it's not budging, start stepping on it. Put your weight on it to see if that will pop it loose. (Keep one hand on the car for stability- hence the reason for jack stands.)
6) Repeat the process for the lower control arm.
7) Pull straight up on the steering hub to free it from the lower ball joint. DO NOT pull it away from the car too far or you'll run the risk of damaging the cv shaft bearings or boots.
8) take a hammer and tap the cv shaft spindle to drive it thru the steering hub assembly towards the center of the car.
9) Unbolt it from the strut. there should only be 2 bolts with nuts. Don't worry, with the car off the ground, there should not be any pressure on the strut.
With the whole steering hub assembly off, go to the auto parts store and purchase a new bearing and bearing seal(s). The best place to have the bearing pressed out is usually a tire house like Goodyear, Firestone or Les Schwab if they have the press. Some autoparts places also have machine/press shops that would do it.
10) now with the whole assembly back. Reverse the process to get it back together. It usually goes faster than you realize.
NOTE: Now that you messed with the alignment, it probably wouldn't hurt to go have the alignment checked out. If you have any other questions with this, repost and I'll do my best to figure it out. Hope this isn't too overwhelming.....
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I had to do my 2001 Yukon XL and it took about 4 hours of beating on a chisel with a short handled 10 pound sledge hammer to seperate the bearing from the hub. Even applying heat with a propane torch didn't help, if you had access to a acetylene torch it probably would have went quicker. I wanted to give up 5 times but just took a rest and went back at it.
In order to remove the front wheel bearings without press hub off the bearing and then the bearing out of the knuckle. To do the first step need a a Support Bridge.It is a special tool. Make bridge and use a general bearing pulled kit to replace bearings. use a "Front Wheel Drive Bearing Removal Adapters Puller Pulley Tool Set Kit" .To replace the bearing, remove front CV shaft taking care not to move the CV shaft too far out .
SECTION 204-01: Front Suspension
2000 Focus Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Procedure revision date: 03/18/2003
Installer, Wheel Hub Bearing Cup 204-023 (T73T-1217-A)
Remover/Installer, Bushing 204-180 (T93P-5493-A)
Installer, Drive Pinion Bearing Cup 205-140 (T80T-4000-F)
Adapter for 303-224 (Handle) 205-153 (T80T-4000-W)
Puller, Bearing 205-D064 (D84L-1123-A)
Installer, Wheel Speed Sensor Ring 206-054 (T93P-20202-A)
Remove the wheel knuckle. For additional information, refer to Wheel Knuckle in this section.
NOTE: When removing the hub from the wheel knuckle the bearing will be destroyed. The bearing inner ring will be on the hub and the bearing outer ring will be in the wheel knuckle. Using the special tools, remove the wheel hub from the wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: The special tools must be used to prevent damage to the hub. If the hub is damaged a new hub must be installed. CAUTION: Do not use heat to remove the bearing inner ring. Using the special tools, remove the bearing inner ring from the wheel hub.
Remove the circlip from the wheel knuckle.
Install the old bearing inner ring.
Install the bearing cage on to the bearing inner ring.
Install the bearing cage and inner ring assembly to the wheel knuckle.
Using the special tools, remove the bearing outer ring from the wheel knuckle.
Installation CAUTION: Avoid any impact on the wheel speed sensor ring. CAUTION: Make sure the wheel speed sensor ring is clean. CAUTION: Avoid any contact between the wheel speed sensor ring and a magnetic surface.
CAUTION: Make sure the wheel bearing is installed into the wheel knuckle with the wheel speed sensor ring, colored black, at the wheel speed sensor end of the wheel knuckle. Using the special tools, install the new wheel bearing to the wheel knuckle.
NOTE: Make sure the circlip does not cover the wheel speed sensor. Install the circlip to the wheel knuckle.
Using the special tools, install the wheel hub to the wheel knuckle.
Install the wheel knuckle. For additional information, refer to Wheel Knuckle in this section.
Its not so bad - however you will need the proper puller and small race tool (if the bearing separates).
They can be rented at a parts store relatively cheap.
Here is the procedure so you can determine your abilities...
The wheel bearings are only removed if they are worn. They cannot be
removed without destroying them (due to side thrust created by the
bearing puller). They are not periodically disassembled, repacked and
Remove the wheel and support the car. Remove the attaching
bolts and remove and suspend the brake caliper, hanging it from the
body so as to avoid putting stress on the brake line.
Remove the setscrew with an Allen wrench. Pull off the brake disc and pry off the dust cover with a small prybar.
Using a chisel, knock the tab on the collar nut away from the shaft. Unscrew and discard the nut.
Pull off the bearing with a puller set such as 31 2 101/102/104
and discard it. On the M3, use a puller set such as 31 2 102/105/106.
On the M3, install the main bracket of the puller with 3 wheel bolts.
If the inside bearing inner race remains on the stub axle, unbolt
and remove the dust guard. Bend back the inner dust guard and pull the
inner race off with a special tool capable of getting under the race
(BMW 00 7 500 and 33 1 309 or equivalent). Reinstall the dust guard.
If the dust guard has been removed, install a new one. Install a
special tool (BMW 31 2 120 or equivalent; on M3, use 31 2 110 or
equivalent) over the stub axle and screw it in for the entire length of
the guide sleeve's threads. Press the bearing on.
Reverse the remaining removal procedures to install the disc and
caliper. Torque the wheel hub collar nut to 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm). Lock
the collar nut by bending over the tab.
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