2001 Chrysler Sebring Conv - lights on rear view mirror problem
I've had the car in for a number of standard maintennce services several times recently. Though I have a new battery - I started having problems with the car not starting - and having to jumpstart every morning. Last night I looked out at the car and saw that the lights on the bottom of the rear view mirror were on - I can't figure out how to turn them off. The manual shows lots of different mirrors - I didn't see one like mine. I've pressed every button I can find. Anyone know how to get these off? I may need to drive by Chrysler if I can't find a fix. Thanks.
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Re: 2001 Chrysler Sebring Conv - lights on rear view...
If I remember correctly, the lights on the rear view mirror on your convertable act as an interior or dome light. They will come on if a door is open, or in your case, a door switch is stuck in the open position. This is rectified by replacing the switch itself. Unfortunately, your switch is located in the latching mechanism, the whole thing must be replaced. This is done by first determining which door is causing the problem, then removing the door panel for latch access. If you need more detail just ask, your dealer will be happy to help, this repair should cost about an hours labour plus the part.
Hope this was some help.
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Here are a couple of ideas for you. Even though things were replaced, it is not clear they are working. Just as a process of elimination, it sounds like the battery runs down which would be consistent with weak or no charging. If you have a voltmeter, put it across the battery terminals while the engine is running and confirm that the voltage is around 13 or 14 volts which would indicate that it is being charged. That would eliminate the new alternator. Another possibility is a bad contact at the battery terminals. Since the battery was recently replaced, that is a good possibility. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight. These are the first level checks you should make before going deeper into other possibilities. G
I was having the same problem with my 2004 9-3. I assumed the starter was bad and replaced it. I then charged the battery and found it wouldn't fully charge. After charging for several hours when I removed the charger I only showed 11 volts at battery posts. The new battery tested 12.8 volts and the car started well. With the car idling I tested and showed 14.6 volts at the battery post which confirmed my alternator was charging.
I do believe I replaced the starter in error and that it was just a bad battery. When my battery was failing I had dim headlights and flashing displays that you described and the clicking noises also. When I put jumper cables on my saab and let the bad battery charge for several minutes the car would start right up and the headlights would brighten up and even though the battery was bad the idle voltage at the battery posts was increased to 14.6 volts coming from the alternator.
Remember to remove the jumper cables quickly once the car starts to avoid possible electrical problems.
I have had bad starters in other vehicles that would draw a huge load on the battery and jump starting them would sometimes give enough voltage to turn the engine over and start it.
Bench tests aren't always correct because the components aren't under a true load. I had a brand new alternator fresh out of the box last year that was bad and wouldn't put out good voltage even though it bench tested perfect. Go figure.
Check your battery voltage with the engine off. It should read over 12 volts if its charged.
Hi. The number 12 code is in reference to a battery, or computer that was recently disconnected. This will occur on most avengers, most of the time. It, basically, indicates a low, or missing battery signal that was detected in the last 50 key starts. If you had the battery changed recently, or the battery was low, or dead recently, this will cause this code to appear. It is not a serious issue. This is nothing to worry about, in this case. The code will shutdown after the battery has been detected as a strong source of power during the next 50 starts.
Concerning the 55 code. This is just a standard "end of code" number. it means nothing. it dose not represent any faults that may exist.
In my case, the instrument cluster was bad, causing the MFI display and radio to go haywire and putting a contstant drain on the battery. $760 to have the VW shop replace it. No problems related to the battery or alternator have occurred since.