One is on the slave and one is on the clutch master cylinder.
Do the master first-at the bleeder or at the line 3 times.
Then go to the slave cylinder.
Do not pump the pedal-just old it down to bleed.
the slave may not have a bleeder screw- just crack the feed line to bleed it.
SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding
The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics
SOURCE: 1990 jeep wranger slave cyclinder
The clutch slave cylinder on this model is located inside the transmission bell housing. You would have to pull the tranny to see it.
Bleeding the slave cylinder is a fairly simple process.
Underneath the vehicle on the driver side you will see two hydraulic lines going into the transmission where the tranny connects to the engine. If you have trouble locating just follow the hydraulic line from the master cylinder on the firewall.
One of these lines is actually sticking out of the tranny and has a bleeder valve on the end.
You will need a 9/16 box end wrench and a 5/16 or 1/4 inch box end wrench and someone with you to press the clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle.
1. Top off the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Also, MAKE SURE you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off during this process. You may need to have a second helper to take care of this so you don't have to keep climbing out from underneath.
2.Hold the line with the 9/16 and loosen the bleeder valve a couple turns or until fluid begins to drain. Have someone SLOWLY depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it down to the floor until you tighten the bleeder valve back up. MAKE SURE YOU ARE OUT OF THE WAY OF THE SQUIRTING FLUID WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED!!
3. Once you are sure the valve is tight, have them pump the clutch pedal a couple times . Repeat step two until the pedal has a full stroke.
SOURCE: bleed the clutch
No way to bleed the clutch system.You need to buy a clutch master/Slave assy from saturn.Comes completely full of fluid & ready to install.It has retainers to hold slave pin in place until fully installed.Once installed you push the pedal & you will hear a faint click which is the slave retainer breakaways relieving.No other way to bleed although aftermarket parts house will sell you individual pieces.hope this helps
SOURCE: clutch won't engage
There is a problem with the pressure plate spring or possibly the throwout bearing is bound up,you should be able to pull the rubber boot from around the clutch fork and have someone depress the pedal,you should be able to see if it's a problem with the bearing.Unfortunatly the trans is probably going to have to caome off.
SOURCE: 1992 Toyota Previa van,Oil dripping onto exhaust manifold, replace head gasket? need a free manual!
The toyota previa uses a formed silicone gasket for the valve cover and the cover is held in place by metric shoulder bolts ( 10mm). The valve gasket leaks because you can't get enough preload on the bolts to re-seat the old gasket when it gets old and shrinks. The shoulder bolts only allow you to tighten the gasket enough to seat the shoulder on the bolt. If you continue to torque down the suspected bolts, you will snap the bolt off ( don't ask me how I know this ). You can either 1.)replace the old gasket with a new one or 2.) remove the existing bolts around the leak area and put in new metric bolts that do not have a shoulder. You may want to put in a small sleeve into the existing bolt hole but shorter than the thickness of the valve cover to account for the smaller diameter bolt. You can now torque down the bolt and get enough preload to seal the valve cover without removing the old gasket. Make sure you use a torque wrench ( in-lbs) or be very careful not to snap these small valve cover bolts.
Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.
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