Question about 1999 Chevrolet Camaro

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Pcv valve and hose assembly replacement????

1999 ss camaro 5.7l v8 I posted previously here because I have various codes popping up on my car. I had a smoke test done on the emissions and it showed a leak at the pcv valve and hose assembly in the way back of the motor. I understand that in order to replace the pcv valve and hose assembly that the intake has to come off so that the assembly can be accessed. Can anyone clarify for me and also I need to know what the book calls for on hours to complete the job??? The motor is a 5.7L V8 and it is a 1999 SS Camaro. I have been told various things on fixing it so not real sure what really has to be done and if the intake has to come off or not???? You cannot see back there and I was wondering if a Chevy Dealer service center would have a better quicker cheaper way to repair this??? I was told or quoted approximately $478.00 for the fix in which the pcv valve and hose assembly would cost $109.00. It is running lean and have had codes for mass air flow, o2 sensors and various others like p0102, p0137, p0157, p0171 and p0174. The smoke test showed vacuum leak at pcv. Right now the service engine light is off but it comes on at least once a week and then a day later it goes off again by itself. Thanks JT

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The pcv vaulve is a6.00 part at the parts store and only takes a few sec too install
someones treying too rip you off

Posted on Feb 20, 2009


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a Dodge Stratus 2004. It has 2.7 L - 6

I will post these one at a time...

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.
Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

  • The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
  • There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible solutions include:
  • In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
  • Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
  • Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: code P0157 and P0137

P0157 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

P0137 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)

There is something that could be making the air and fuel mixture incorrect causing these codes. It don't necessarily mean you need new O2 sensors.

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 2841 Answers

SOURCE: motor dies when put into gear

If the engine idles perfectly and it is an automatic, check the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. If you disconnect the wires to the TCC and the problem goes away you have found the problem. You can still drive the car until you replace it, the torque converter just will not go into lock up mode and you will use more fuel. Here is an excellent article on this issue. The same site will tell you exactly how to replace it.

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: l203 chev truck no power ecm codes p0131, p0137, p0151, p0157

these are all O2 sensor circut problems

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to check the trouble codes on a 2001 chrysler

I assume you are asking about the "check engine" diagonstic codes.

You can check the codes yourself by using the key and ignition switch. With the engine off, put the key in the ignition and turn it ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON -- do not turn to the extreme right "start engine" positon, but to the last click just before the start position.
You will then see a code list read out where the odometer (mileage) usually displays. It will start with dashes in the readout "-------", then each diagnostic code will appear in sequence like P1684, P0700, and then the word "done" after all of the codes have been displayed.

One word of warning -- I have found that sometimes all of the diagnostic codes do not display with this method, so it would be best to also check the codes using an electronic diagnostic code reader. You can do this for free yourself as explained below.

Go to your nearest "national chain -- do it yourself" auto parts store such as Auto Zone or Advance Auto. Ask to borrow the "engine code reader diagnostic tool" -- you will have to give them your driver's license to borrow it. Then, in the parking lot, check the diagnostic codes yourself.

Turn the car key to the "accessory position" -- i.e., not started, but with the accessories on. Power on the diagnostic tool. Plug the attached pin connector into the Chrysler diagnostic socket located just under the dasboard below the ignition switch. Press the "read codes" button on the diagnostic tool -- you will see a diagnostic code and a brief message about what it means. Keep pressing the "next" button until you have read all of the codes.

P.S. Don't forget to get your driver's license back when you return the diagnostic tool!

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

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