Question about 1985 Nissan King Cab

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Serious timing issues on 1985 nissan king cab z24.

I had bent valves and a blown head gasket on an 85 z24 720 pickup. Valves have been replaced at a machine shop etc. The shop that did the work could not get the timing correct with the chain/crank/oil pump alignment (even following the manual and calling a couple of import buddies didnt help) and as a result the distributor is advanced wide open which gets it close but not quite right.

These guys are good but this engine threw them for a loop. Any suggestions I could give to them to help as the timing needs to be advanced a bit but can not be due to the distributor being maxed out ?

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  • mikebarne657 May 20, 2009

    hi ,ive got the same problem ,just did rings bearing new head etc its the 4 spark plug one followed the book etc but got it to fire once and thats all been trying and asking people for a week with no luck any ideas ????



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  • Nissan Master
  • 14,398 Answers

Hi,did you get your 720 fixed,I also have a 85,Ii replaced my engine with a Jasper engine,if you still need help let me know,here's a video of mine. 85 Nissan 720 4x4 2 4 Weber conversion

Posted on Apr 29, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: 300zx engine idle

The reason it's stalling out is because of the adjustments you made to the CAS and TPS. You need to reset the CAS where it was, since when you rotate this sensor, you change the ignition timing. As for the TPS, that also needs to be reset to how it was. The way to adjust the idle on this engine is with a screw on the idle air control valve (IACV). At the back corner of the engine, on top on the driver's side, the IACV is bolted on. If you crouch down next to the driver's fender and look straight in at the IACV (with a flashlight) you will see a screw recessed in there, with the head pointing toward you. That's the idle adjustment screw. With the engine running, AFTER you have reset the CAS and TPS, turn this screw until you are able to set a warm-engine idle of roughly 750 RPM. Messing with TPS voltage and ignition timing is a sure-fire way to stall or blow up your engine.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace blown head gasket

u have to start by removeing ur headers dont forget to take ur blown gasket to ur local part store to make shure u get the rigth one

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: 85 nissan pickup runs rough at idle

you may have a carbon buildup problem in the egr system, i would check this and the hoses for leaks first

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 nissan king cab z24 engine. I want to replace

Best bet for a replacement carb would be a weber 32/36..Part # K646 . It has everything in the kit for replacing the stock carb. Block off all the emission vac ports.

Posted on Jun 04, 2011

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: need to know which years

85-86 is the same for the taillights 83-86 for the markers

Posted on Jun 04, 2011

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IF the valves are sticking open then the bad news is that they are probably bent and jamming in the guides.. I would guess that in reassembling the head they were not aware of the cam shaft timing and turned the crank when the cam was not positioned correctly hence the bent valves. With the compression readings you have it points directly to bent valves . They probably fitted the cam shaft then put the head on which will result in the same bent valves. Sorry for the news but my advice is to get the valves replaced then get hold of a work shop manual and do the job according to the book. At least you will wind up knowing more that the guys that didn't Best of luck.

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Need ignition timing specs for 1985 Nissan King Cab Z22 engine

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Low compression

Could be burnt valves, bent valves, rings, gasket, scored cylinder walls etc... Need to do cylinder leakage test to find ut where the compression is being lost. Are you saying it has a new head gasket or are yu asking if that is the problem?

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How do I adjust the rocker arm bolts for the valve lash on a 1985 Nissan 720 pick up Z24 engine

Guys he has a Z24, Not KA24, Z24 for one, Is carbed and has older lifters and valves. They need to be tuned to spec within a certain specific limit and the cams must be rotated in certain positions when doing different valves, etc... Shouldnt take very long normally and its not a hard process but if you have a tick, you really should get it checked out. Btw, the Z24 engine's idle isnt controlled by ecu at all or else the carb wouldnt need an idle adjustment screw.

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One cylinder is low in my 1998 Volvo s90 and the repair shops says the engine needs to be replaced. Is this true>

Not necessarily. I assume you mean that the compression on one cylinder is low? This is generally either the rings/cylinder, or valves. Sometimes a blown headgasket can drop compression, but will generally have other symptoms, ie., blown between one cylinder and another, blown between the cylinder and a cooling or oil passage, etc.

A GOOD shop will check more than compression, to determine where the exact problem is.

*A head gasket blown between 2 cylinders will have low compression on bothe affected cylinders.
*A head gasket blown into an oil or cooling passage will blow bubbles (gasses) into the affected area.
*To check the rings/cylinder, after running the first compression check, put a few ounces of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Re-run the compression check on that cylinder, and if the compression improves dramatically, you have bad rings on that cylinder.
*To check the valves, you need what is called a pressure differential guage. You place the affected cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke. You then attach the guage, and apply a set amount of air pressure to the cylinder, usually about 100psi. One dial on the gauge reads input pressure (100psi), and the other reads how much the cylinder is actually holding. A drop of more than 10-15% generally indicates a bad valve in the head (as long as the prevoius checks came out OK). To determine which valve is bad, remove the intake ducting and listen for escaping air (Intake Valve) and listen at the tailpipe for the same (exhaust valve).

These are general procedures for tests so that you can see if your mechanic has actually performed them or not. If you want to run the tests yourself, I can give you more specific instructions.

Head Gasket - need to remove the head and check the head and block for cracks. Then replace the gasket and reinstall the head.
Bad Valve(s) - need to remove the head and have the bad valves reground or replaced by a machine shop and then reinstall the head.
Bad Rings/Cylinder - the engine will need to be removed and either machined and rebuilt or replaced.

Again, if you want any more specifics, please ask.

Hope this was helpful!

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Best bet for a replacement carb would be a weber 32/36..Part # K646 . It has everything in the kit for replacing the stock carb. Block off all the emission vac ports.

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