Hey guys, me again with the 2000 jeep cherokee 4.0 with the rod nock. I found a 4.0 liter block with crank, rods. and pistons that came out of a 2001 tj.for 200 bucks. Is this a perfect swap? Will everything bolt up exactly the same or was there changes between the 2000 cherokee sport 4.0 and the 2001 xj 4.0? Does anyone know for sure either way?
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Re: engine swap question - 2000 jeep 172k
Check with any local junkyard or dealer ... they know better than anyone what fits what.... Pretty likely it does. It would be wise to check bearings in one you want to buy (before you pay) also, check the top 1/4" of the cylinder bores. There should be very little or no ridge at the top (big ridge = a lot of cylinder wear) If you buy it, check the timing chain for excessive wear and also check "freeze plugs" and replace before installing it. (far easier out of car than in)
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its in the FSM. want to read that for free.
see chapter marked ENGINE>
ZJ jeep it is.
there is no such thing,
here ill paste the install push rods/rockers. lines
(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the "V8" mark lines
up with the TDC mark on the timing chain case
cover. This mark is located 147° ATDC from the No.1
(2) Install the push rods in the same order as
(3) Install rocker arm and pivot assemblies in the
same order as removed. Tighten the rocker arm bolts
to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine during
or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
(4) Install cylinder head cover.
(5) Connect spark plug wires.
the first grand cherokee laredo was in 1992 . it was all jeep sports back then, the blocks are all the same .you will need to use some of the sensors from the old motor, the distributor and oil sending unit and temp sensor. will be no problem. if I can put a ford ranger motor in a mercury sable your swap is easier
A few questions for you how many miles on the engine? have you had regular oil changes done? This model should have the 4.0 liter engine if so what you are describing sounds like rod knock. The 4.0L engine is designed to take allot of abuse and last for well over 200,000 miles but if regular oil changes are not done you are in for trouble. And the only way to fix rod knock to have the engine rebuilt.
I had the same problem , Come to find out it was the crank barring's and not the lifter's. Take one of the crank barring's off and feel the crank where the barring goes and if it's rough it's more in likely the crank and not the lifter's but if it's smooth put the crank barring back pull the valve cover's and there's the lifter's , pull the nut off the lifter's and pull the lifter rod's out roll them on a flate surface to see if there bent. Then go to a auto part's store and get the haynes manual it will tell you everything you need to know.
Also when you flood out your plugs, I have found out that you have to replace them. I don't know why but you just do. After doing all this work, you obviously know how to do this kind of thing. You need to check your fuel pressure, make sure everything is at the right psi. As a Jeep guy a have to commend you. But as my dad who taught me, go back to the big three. 1. fuel 2.. fire 3. electric
make sure its getting fuel and air, then make sure its getting fire in the plugs work your way backwards. then make sure its getting electricity to everything. Also I would check your distributor. is it off, make sure pull it and put it back in while #1 is TDC
I wish you lots of luck, I have had 4 Jeeps that I did a lot of work on, let me know where you get. Maybe you can tell me more to help after all this.
If you have the same pulley arrangement that most 4.0 engines have that pulley is an idler not a tensioner. Your power steering pump has a pivot bolt, and a slide under the pump. You adjust belt tension using the pump.