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Check your oil, you could have a blown gasket and it is going into the crankcase. If the stick is over the full mark, of if you let it drip onto a piece of plastic like a credit card or something and you see some bubbles or what looks like water droplet being displaced by the oil, you have a problem. Or if it looks foamy on the dipstick, as oil and water do not mix, they will separate or foam if the mixture has been churning in the motor for a while. If the car seem to run fairly decent, it could be a water pump gasket or intake manifold gasket if you do indeed find water in the oil.
Two possibilities I can think of.. Dipstick not fully inserted... or is it possible that you have overfilled the crankcase with oil??? On my VW, I learned the hard way to take special care when checking the oil level with the dipstick... I had to fully remove the dipstick... clean it off... and THEN reinsert it... and pull it back out.. and then look to get an accurate oil level reading... It must have something to do with how the dipstick tube runs down into the crankcase....
Yes, it could be that a plugged up Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve or engine crankcase breather (with filter) is the cause allowing moisture to condense in the crankcase. However, if the valve and breather are okay, a cylinder compression test should be done to verify that the cylinder head gasket is not leaking. Regardless, the engine oil should be drained and the engine flushed with clean oil and an appropriate crankcase flush additive. Entrained water in the oil (the creamy sludge) will damage engine bearings quickly.
You may have put in too much oil. Check the oil level dipstick and see if the oil level is above the full mark. If so, you'll have to drain some out until it is down to the full mark. Too much oil will block engine crankcase venting passages and lead to pressurization of the crankcase.
If the oil level checks out okay, check for a stuck positive crankcase ventilation valve (PCV). If the crankcase cannot vent blowby gases, it will pressurize and oil will be forced past the intake and exhaust valve guide seals causing heavy oil burning. The engine will also run terrible.
replace the pcv valve in the truck.located on the valve cover,it gives the crankcase positive crankcase ventilation. sound like yours is stopped up.when you replace the oil filter,use a thin film of oil around the oil filter gasket before you install it. you'll find that it helps to seal the oil filter perfect.thank you for choosing fixya.com
Get under the car and locate the oil pan near the front of the vehicle . Put a drain pan within easy reach. Use a socket wrench to remove the nut that holds the oil pan to the car. Hold the pan with your other hand so it won't drop when the nut is removed.
Slide the drain pan quickly under the oil pan to catch the old oil. Drain as much as possible.
Remove the old oil pan gasket very carefully with a thin paint scraper, and then wipe the surface with engine cleaner or solvent.
Rub a bit of oil on the sealing surface to promote adhesion, and attach the new gasket securely. Reattach the oil pan to the car with the bolt.
Pour fresh oil into the crankcase. Honda Accord cars will require between 5 and 6 qt., so fill it until the crankcase looks full, and then check it with the dipstick to be sure, adding more if necessary. Back the car off the ramps.
Put the old oil in a used milk carton and attach the lid securely. Take the oil to a hazardous materials disposal facility, or to a garage.
you should always use the recommended oil. the viscosity of the oil is critical to bearing lubrication. as for quantity, after draining oil and replacing the filter, fill the crankcase with 4 quarts. this will be enough to provide protection. run the engine for a minute or two. shut the engine off and allow 2-3 minutes for the oil to drain back into the crankcase. check the oil level. if the oil is visable on the dipstick to the bottom of the hash marks, add 1 more quart and that should bring you up to the full mark. the area of the hash marks represent 1 quart. if the oil is at the half way point between the hash marks, add 1/2 quart. the dipstick might also have sight holes where you read the level. in any case, the marked area measures 1 quart. if the oil falls within those marks, add the proper amount accordingly.
Well one big problem with the dipstick housings for land rover is their size. They allow for a lot of condensation to form in the tube making it look like there is water in the crankcase. To make sure that this is all that is happening change your oil and make sure its not getting water in the crankcase. As far as condensation in the housing itself, every Land Rover if have seen has the same condition. The only way to be positive is to see how the oil looks in the pan itself and unfortunately every time you clean the dipstick it gets contaminated from the housing walls.
This really sounds like you have a leaky head gasket or worse, a cracked water jacket. You may be getting coolant into your crankcase, which would "water down", so to speak, your oil and cause you to lose oil pressure. I do not know what you mean by your "oil registering fine". I presume you mean the level on the dipstick. Do you keep losing coolant? Is there any brown/white milky sludge under your oil cap or on your dipstick? If so, you most likey would have a head gasket leak.