Question about 1995 Nissan Pathfinder
I have a 99 pathfinder I just purchased used. The car ran great at first now Ive dropped a ton of parts on it and its still not right.
Its got no power taking off but just before it upshifts it shoots off like a rocket. It hesitates and bucks really bad going a steady speed. Over the past few days its started idling really rough when in gear. When the check engine light came on i got it tested and they just say its running lean on bank 1 and 2. And gave an o2 sensor code. Ive changed the EGR valve. MAF sensor. all 4 o2 sensors. fuel pump. plugs wires dist cap and button. Oh yea. Also the metal fuel return line was crimped off so i sawed it off and replaced it. I noticed when i took it off no gas came out. Any ideas anyone?
Check throtle position sensor behind the TBI. Run mode 4 in the computer diagnostic checks to see what codes is giving.
By the way, if any of the sensors give a code, don't spend money replacing them. They are all inter related. If one fails you will get codes for the others also. What you really need to do is above suggestion and then trace the circuits for continuity. Am assuming you know how to run ECM codes in the computer. Eliminate codes one at a time, and re-run mode 4, until all codes have been eliminated.
If code 55 is in the computer. Replace the whole TBI. After 20 years of use, they appear to corrode inside. But try the below first in the interest of saving money.
You might want to remove the TBI. Don't disturb the pre heater underneath the TBI if is stuck to it.
Take choke cleaner (Pep Boys or Autozone) Carb and Choke Cleaner in yellow can. There is an opening in the pre heater for the Air Flow Sensor, liberally spray it with the plastic little nozzle attached to the can and ensure all the gook in the passage way is clean, spray until no more junk comes out. Remove mass air flow sensor from TBI before doing this. You don't want to damage it. Spray the passage way from MAFS side also. While you have the TBI off, look at the port for EGR VALVE see if its clogged up with Carbon. Clean them out you can remove the carbon by scraping with a phillips head or bladed screwdriver. Two holes leading to the EGR Valve. They are about 1/2 inch in diameter round holes. Flush with the carb cleaner. If you really want to do ir right, remove the EGR Valve, clean it also and check to make sure its working. If NG replace it. Your EGR valve might be getting stuck due to carbon in the open position thus letting to much air into the intake manifold thus cunking out. Or the EGR has a leak. Check with vacuum pump by attaching VP to EGR. It should hold steady with 20 - 30 vacuum on the EGR. If it does not hold, throw it away and buy a new one.
You mentioned you replaced the MAFS. Remove it again and look in the element. Is it Wet or Dry?
It should be dry. Don't touch it. If its wet, then your air passages are clogged in the TBI. While you have the TBI out, spray all the vacuum fittings with the carb cleaner ensure they are free of blockage. Replace everything back carefully. Your truck should idle at 850 rpms if its standard and 700 if its auto. + or - 50 rpms. 850 is ideal. Let me know what happens after all of that.
Last but not least. Check the hose to the PCV Valve, ensure is not cracked, if damage, replace the hose and replace the PCV Valve. Ensure all vacuum hoses have no leaks and are correctly routed, especially the EGR valve one. From the manifold connect hose to center vacuum port or bottom port on the Solenoid Cut off Valve. Connect port B (Middle one to the EGR Valve.) Connect Port A (top one) to the Air Filter Canister. With the car on there should be continuity between port C and and B. You can check that with the vacuum pump. Gun the engine and see if you get a momentarily reading on the gauge if yes the port is good. If NO the Cut off Solenoid is NG. Find a working one in junk shop they are $100 bucks at the dealer. (highway robbery) If you are in PA go to Harry's U pull it. 5 bucks, each take the vacuum pump so you can check it before buying. The suffer from corrosion in the ports. Hope this solves your problem. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 29, 2008
SOURCE: 95 Pathfinder Fuel Pump
In the rear cargo area you pull the back plastic strip that runs around where your hatch latches and pull the carpet FROM the rear right to the front left of the cargo area until you see the round/square panel with 4 10mm bolts. That is the cover that you remove to get to your pump without having to pull your gas tank. be sure to label your fuel lines.
James Mac Earn Cash Sleeping
Posted on Sep 08, 2008
1995 Nissan Pathfinder Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue
Car Radio Ground Wire: Gray
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Red/Yellow
Car Radio Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Black
Rear Speakers Size: 5′ x 7′
Rear Speakers Location: Roof Mount
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Pink
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
Disconnect the battery - both positive and negative terminals and remove battery from holder (better access that way). From underneath - remove the plastic shield underneath the front of the car. It is held on by a few bolts. Remove the upper radiator hose (some coolant will drain out). Also free the cable from the support bracket on the top of the platic fan housing. There is an overflow hose that is also clipped to the fan housing unlcip the hose and move it out of the way. From underneath, push in on the clips and the lower half of the fan housing will come out of the bottom. From the top - remove the two bolts holding the upper part of the fan housing and you should be able to work it out from the top. You should now have better visibility and access to the alternator. Loosen the belt tensioner (from below) and remove the belt. There are two mounting bolts on the alternator, a long one through the alternator and a second on the "dog ear" of the alternator. Once the alternator is free - you can get at the battery cable post and the other wires. The wiring harness can be removed by pressing in on the locking clip. Most difficult is the wiring harness support bracket. A short 10mm wrench can get to it. The alternator is now free but will have to be manipulated forward so that it sits below the fan. Once there - you can reach down from the top, and pull the alternator into the larger gap between the fan blades. While rotating the fan, bring the alternator around with it to the top and it will come out. To reinstall -- do everything in reverse. I recommend replacing the belt so you don;t have to do this again.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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