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Re: over heating hard to steer and keeps running after...
Definitely have the shop that worked on it TOW it back and look it over. Or have someone else check it out and document what they find. Either way, DO NOT DRIVE it if you haven't wasted the engine yet you easily could if driven!!!
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Struts would not cause vibration problems, A CV joint could, turn your vehicle in a parking lot hard right, make a circle than turn left make a circle ,if you hear a noises you have a cv joint problem. If you feel vibration on the steering wheel its in the front, if you feel it in the seat its in the rear.
Tires out of round & Balance very common as well brake rotors cause vibrations.
cv joints in cars that are driven correctly will last on an average , 60-100.000 miles so if you cannot get more than 5000 kms out of joints then there is a possibility that he is ripping you off
In my shop if a car comes back with a cv problem inside that period of time I would be having the suspension and steering /turning circle checked to ensure that the cv joint is operating exactly at the point of turn axis and is not being over stressed
I would suggest that next time you take it to an accredited steering specialist shop or specialist shop that replaces cv joints and have the problem fully investigated
Hello friend. Some possible causes ? 1) Wheel not balanced / wheel weight lnocked off. 2) Steering joints worn badly. 3) Brake disc(s) distorted through overheating. 4) Constant Velocity Joint (CV Joint) worn out.
You need to try and locate from WHERE the vibration is coming from, difficult I know while car is moving but it will help to narrow down (front, rear,. left , right ? ) what is wrong. Could save you lots of cash at the Workshop.
A wobble in the steering is more likely to be one of
- loose wheel nuts
- loose hub nut
- worn steering tie rod outer joint
- worn steering tie rod inner joint
- loose steering rod universal
- worn steering knuckle ball joint
Out of these a worn or loose steering tie rod joint is most likely. If you can, jack the front of the car up and rest it on axle stands, NOT just on the jack, then have one person shake the front wheel back and forth while holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock, while another holds the steering wheel still. Then look at and feel each joint to see if you can locate the looseness.
If Your steering wheel keeps turning as in a 360 degree circle that means the steering column has broken or came away from the steering rack they are usually connected by what you call steering ujs something on shaft from column to rack has broken away nothing to do with cv joints or brake fluid if it was belt related that has snapped the steering will still turn it will be just really heavy the pump just helps assist steering my money is on the steering column shaft
Priority Action Part Type Cause 1 Inspect Power Steering Fluid Low Power Steering Fluid Level. 2 Inspect Power Steering Pump Worn out or Damaged Power Steering Pump. 3 Inspect Power Steering Hose Leaking or Incorrectly Installed Power Steering Hose. 4 Inspect Belt Tension Incorrect Belt Tension Will Allow Belts to Slip. 5 Inspect Belt Incorrectly Routed, Adjusted(Tensioned), Missing or Worn Drive Belt(s). 7 Inspect Ball Joint-upper Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint. 8 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower Malfunctioning Ball Joint.
What happes when a vehicle experiences a loss of power steering, is that the car reverts to a manual steering car (like in the Model T days), making steering difficult, especially at low speeds, and during low speed maneuvering.
If all is fine when moving in a straight line - you are probably OK. Turning while in four wheel drive, especially a full hard over turn, puts a great amount of strain on the universal (or CV) joints of the steering axles. Although CV joints are smoother they too still have to supply power to the steering wheels at an angle while turning. If you have concerns about the CV or universal joints, jack up your vehicle, secure it with blocks at the wheels and put on jack stands, then inspect the joints checking for excess play. Rotate the front tires back and forth by hand while watching and feeling for unnatural movement or obvious broken joints. They may be difficult to see if covered with a rubber boot. If you do have boots, they need to be in good shape since they are designed to keep dirt out of the joint. If they are not in good shape, broken or split, they should be replaced. Let me know if this helps. Thanks
Stationary lock to lock turning, will not damage the CV joints, they are designed to turn in this manner, to test a CV joint to see if it has damage, go to an empty parking lot, stop the car, turn the steering wheel full left, accelerate kinda hard, do you hear a clicking or clunking noise? repeat in reverse and on the right hand side. Any noises and your CV joints may be worn, also inspect the CV boots for tears and leakage by turning full left and looking at the boot, then full right. Hope this helps, let me know
1)Jack the front of the Chevy Cavalier up and support on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Turn the ignition key just enough to unlock the steering wheel.
2)Remove the cotter pin and large axle nut retainer in the center of the rotor. Remove the two large bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the spindle. Push in on the CV axle where it protrudes through the center of the rotor and make sure it is loose enough to push out. If it is not loose, then put the axle nut on upside down---turn it for only five to six threads. Tap it with a hammer to push the CV axle out of the hub.
3)Turn the steering outward with the steering wheel--if you are working on the driver's side turn the wheel to the left. This gives sufficient room to remove the axle. The other side should be done in the same manner. Remove the axle nut if you used it to hammer the axle out, then grab the extension of the spindle above the rotor and pull it down and toward you as you grab the CV axle and withdraw it from the hub.
4)Put a drip pan under the CV joint at the point it enters the transmission in case there is any fluid loss. Place the head of the pry bar between the transmission and the CV joint. With a quick snap of the tool separate the CV joint from the transmission. There is a small circlip on the end of the CV joint that keeps it in place. Prying it with a quick snap will overcome the friction of the circlip and the CV joint will pop out.
5)Install the new CV axle by inserting the axle end into the transmission first. It will go in as far as the circlip. Back it out ever so slightly--about a half an inch or so, and sharply shove it in past the circlip.
6)Grab the spindle at the extension above the rotor with the holes for the strut. While pulling down and toward you install the outer end of the CV joint. To do this easily bend the CV joint toward the hole in the rotor and push into the hole while rotating the rotor to line up the splines.
7)Install the retaining nut finger tight. While lifting up on the hub and rotor assembly, push the top of the spindle with the holes in it into the strut and insert the bolts and nuts. Tighten them securely. Torque the large retaining nut to 200 foot pounds. Repeat the same procedure to the other side. Put the wheels on and let the car off the jacks.
Suspect worn outer cv joint. Check the boot for any tears, damage or leaking grease. If these are present your cv joint will fail soon if it hasn't already. If you put the car into reverse and turn the wheels to a hard lock a bad cv joint will make a popping grinding type sound. Try left and right turns when doing this test.