Question about Plymouth Arrow

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Bottom wheel of 2 of the front wheel cyclinder leaks

Brakes are for a 1949 plymouth, the brakes have 2 cylinders for each tire I have rebuilt the cylinders but cannot adjust the brakes because the bottom wheel cylinder keeps leaking

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They need to be replace with new ones ,because it is cheaper on the long run,
I did it my self and have to do it again,so now i always instal new ones.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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Brake pedal goes nearly to floor I can hear noise like air escaping


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Power brakes failed suddenly on my 53 rocket 88 olds. Where is master cylinder located and what might have caused the brakes to fail so quickly?


The master cylinder is under the drivers floorboard. you can find it under the car by following the brake pedals linkage. These cars have only one ( circuit) for all four wheels. Any wheel cyclinder or brake line can fail anywhere and all the brakes go out. If you don't see brake fluild on the inside side of any of the tires with one person pulling the brakes get under the car and you may hare or even see the leak. If it's been awhile since the leak started you may have to put it more break fluild and pump to see the leak. Or do what they aways did in the old days when mechanics were paid the lease of any trade and take it all aprt and change and servive( rebuild) everything. Rebuild and master cyclinder and renew any bushings in the pedal linkage. ( this stuff may be very hard to buy) replace all the medal break lines and any rubber lines too. ( again hard to find) rebuild all the wheel cyclinders, and reline all the break shoes and resurface all the drums( turn them) these days you will have to settel for rebuilt or replica new wheel cycluinders and master cyclinder, compleate break shoes as the ( art ) of relined and cam grinding the shoes to match the radius of the turned drum is old school and so are the tools and the parts to do them. The car is going to be driven any in traffic with moern cars even a little op fot the new parts and grin and bear it as to the prices will and may be outrageous. Wreak it as you fooled around OK try some of the crash damage parts you'll wish you did it all. The master cylinder will have a bolt headed cap that may be very hard to remove as it'll be rusted on. Heat it if you have to take your time as the things you break may be very hard to come up with even used. The bracket that the masteer bolts onto the bottom of the car may be rusted gone and as you press on the pedel the master may be just moving out of the way. The last time I drove a 53 wast in 1974 and all of these things happened to me so it's alot of time since then so all the problems are likly to be magnified. Be careful as all repars need not be hurried as doing any thing over may be cosly and even more time comsuming.

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I have a clean 4x4 v6 pickup. It had the orig. brake master cylinder and obviously never had the brakes bled. It started using brake fluid like a bottle every 2 weeks. No caliper or wheel cylinder was...


suggest you "look" for fluid loss issue. fluid has to go somewhere right? either a bad rear wheel cylinder.which inside of rear tires will be wet with brake fluid..either passenger side or drivers side. or a bad brake caliper on the front.which will tell on itself by leaking fluid onto the ground when brakes are applied..brake fluid leaking will tell on itself by inspecting the inside of each tire,on the inside of the tires,front to rear. thank you for choosing fixya.com.

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What is leaking brake fluid in front of the rear driver side tire???


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I have a 91 s10 2wd 5spd with a 2.5 4cyl... i bought the truck with the brakes not working, it had a bad rear brakeline that was cracked right in front of the rear driver tire. and since this truck is...


the master cyclinder is divided into diagonal wheels. meaning that each line from the master cyclinder provides fluid to a front wheel and rear wheel. on the front resevoir of the master cyclinder it would be perhaps the left front and right rear brake for example. you need to block the lines going to the rear wheels independently and then bleed the brakes again starting with the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder.

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My rear wheel shudders and its hard to brake


Rear Wheel problem is most likely bad wheel bearings. When you were tightening these did the Tire Rim Holes have damage?
Wheel Lugs should be tightened to 100 ft-lbs.
Get also a four wheel alignment.
On the Brakes issue: Is there enough brake fluid in the Master Cylinder Reservoir? It sounds like there is air in the system, or incorrect fluid. Did the Brake Fluid level fall below the minimum level at any time in the reservoir? If so there could be air in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cyclinder while still on the vehicle. Let me know if you need to do this; I let you know step-by-step.
Is there Brake Fluid leaking anywhere? Check especially on the inside portions of the wheels looking for brake fluid. That leak will have to be fixed first.
Bleed all the brakes. Start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then finish with the left front. Use two (2) helpers to do this. One person adding fluid into the Master Cylinder while the other pumps and eventually holds the brake pedal, while you lossen and then tighten down the brake bleeder ports.
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The part is called the wheel cylinder. (Not to be confused with the master brake cylinder that is under the hood and provides the pressure for the brakes to operate.

On a 1993, I suspect you have drum brakes, so the part you are describing as a rotor, (and that looks, well, round like a rotor), is actually not called a rotor. That is reserved to describe the round heavy plate on the front wheels.

Newer cars actually would possible have disc brakes with rotors on the front and rear wheels.

More than likely, especially on a 1993 vehicle, the seals in the wheel cyclinder are shot. Not sure how hard it is to get replacement parts, but the same re-build kits would likely have been used on several years and models of GM cars from the early to mid-90s.

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