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Re: I also need to find my thermostat on my 2000...
The thermostat on V6 engines is under the thermostat housing at the engine side of the top radiator hose. The thermostat on V8 models is found by tracing the bottom radiator hose back to the thermostat housing on the engine. The housing, thermostat, and O-ring on the V8 models is built as an assembly and will have to be replaced as such.
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Could be thermostat, follow the upper radiator hose from radiator to engine, where it hooks up at engine end, is where thermostat is at, remove small bolts at housing where hose clamps to, under that housing is where thermostat is at.Water pump, follow lower radiator hose from radiator to engine, where it hook up to, is where water pump is at.
If you were to take the upper radiator hose off the engine, and look into the resultant hole, you would see the thermostat.
The thermostat on all cars blocks water leaving the engine and going to the radiator, until the thermostat warms up enough to open.
While the thermostat is closed, water circulates through the heater hose, straight back to the inlet of the water pump. This circulation prevents hot spots, distributing the heat evenly to warm the engine up, and also brings that warmed water to the thermostat.
When the t-stat gets hot enough to open, water leaves the engine instead of circulating through it, and that allows cool(ed) water to flow from the radiator through the bottom hose to replace the water that left through the upper hose and t-stat.
The stub that the upper hose attaches to on the engine should be part of a small housing that is bolted to the engine. Removing that housing is how you remove the t-stat.
On a 5.3L engine follow the lower radiator hose to the water pump... there is an elbow with 2 bolts... the thermostat should be located under that.... just below your serpentine belt tensioner... this confuses people because normally and engine has the thermostat on the top radiator hose
in the upper radiator hose to the engine side of an elbow with 2 screws in there is the thermostat and water pump need to remove the fan belt clucht with the fan off the bottom hose that goes from the radiator to the pump to remove the screws remove the pump the pump clean the surface and install the new pump
With the truck running at operating temperature, squeeze your upper radiator hose. You may have to check it a couple times allowing time for your thermostat to open. Are you able to compress the hose a little when you squeeze it or does it remain stiff/solid? Your thermostat may be stuck open or even stuck closed.
If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.
The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.
To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).
Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
Based on your description "hard line from thermastat area has a heat wraparound it goes towards firewall", that would appear to be part of the heater system for the inside of the vehicle and would not affect the overheating of the engine.
Most engine overheating could be caused by:
insufficient coolant in the radiator or reservoir;
defective (stuck) thermostat;
too soft radiator hoses (upper/lower);
water pump, belt, tensioner;
radiator fan motor, clutch (if has got one), relay.
Additionally, in a large number of vehicles, the radiator fan motor would only work theA/C or heater is ON.
Corrective action would require determining which is the culprit, pls try:
remove the thermostat completely out and test drive, see if the overheating comes back, if yes, then it is not the thermostat, if no then the thermostat most likely is stuck closed and would need replacement;
on start from a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and pls check if the water flows when the engine is revved. If yes, water pump is working, if not, water pump is defective;
in a closed loop cooling system such as in your car, there is a possibility that the radiator hoses might have thinned down or gotten softer. This could be checked by revving the engine while looking over the hoses, there should be apparent sagging or reduction in diameter when the engine is revved. If any, then they are too soft and would need replacement;
clogged radiators could be flushed/cleaned by removing the drain plug at the bottom.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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