Question about 1998 Chevrolet C1500

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98 chevy 1500 4.3L vortec misfire problem

I have a 98 chevy 1500 4.3L vortec I've pulled off all the wires and checked for a spark all but #5 sparks i changed the wire set and have the same problem. the truck starts and idels fine but try to accelerate and the engine shakes and misfires badly.

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  • fdmauser Mar 10, 2009

    I have the same problem . 1 & 2 misfires compression is 175lbs. new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

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These have a real problem with the distributor caps, i would try that

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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Check you FUEL INJECTION HOUSING.....not the individual injector.

The factory housing is probably the OLD style that will crack INTERNALLY. When this happens, it sprays fuel into the neighboring cylinders causing firing problems. The OLD style will have the INJECTORS AT THE HOUSING with tubes running to the engine. The NEW style has wires running from the housing to the INJECTORS AT THE ENGINE.

If you've run into a wall trying to fix you misfire problem, then this is probably the culprit. The crack is not visible as it is INTERNAL. The first guy to work on my 97 Silverado replaced my #6 injector for $300. My new mechanic can get the entire housing with all 8 injectors for about $390. Prior to this, we replaced plugs, wires, Idle arm control, throttle positioning sensor, #6 cylinder and the first guy adjusted the idle with a screw driver which created more problems not to mention he didn't clean the intake while it was off nor did he replace the "reuseable gasket" that was obviously wore flat.

Posted on Sep 20, 2012

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i would not spend the money on heads w/out diagnosing # 5 misfire. misfire is caused by many different things. i would first start by verifying in fact #5 is at fault. start engine, with it running and using well insulated plyers, pull each wire off dist. cap one at a time. you will notice the engine missing worse each one you pull until you reach the one causing the miss. this wire, when pulled, will not change the evident missing cylinder. if it is #5, check spark, at spark plug end. stick a small screwdriver or equivilent in the removed boot, and place it a cm away from a ground source. start engine. observe spark. should be nice and blue, and ark a good inch from ground. if no spark, swap a wire and check again. if still no spark replace cap and rotor. if their is spark, make check plug. even though new, its easy to crack porcilan installing it. try another plug. if still a miss, start engine with plug removed, breifly, and compression should be evident. strong popping noise of compressed air. a compression gauge is the proper test ( 4 strokes 125 psi) but if audible compression is heard without a doubt, more than likely fine. w spark and compression seeming ok, next is possible fuel, (injector) or intake leak, leaning ouy cylinder. try this and let me know. James White White Automotive, ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.

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BUT

Lets keep it simple and go with the condition of spark plugs.
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