Question about 1998 GMC Suburban

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I have 1996 chevy tahoe i replaced everything in front end now truck wont turn left and tie rods bottom out so you can not move them truck was fine before we started now i cant find out why it dont turn left and upper ball joint rubs the a arm while in the air but dont when on the ground help please

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Steering wheel and front end shakes with knocking noise


easiest check struts for leakage or if the top nut came loose.
next Ball joints support bottom of lower control arm and try to move tire in and out on the bottom.
next check bearing plate for movement by trying to move top of tire.
last check tie rod ends by moving as in right turn left turn.
do both sides. if one side is bad replace both sides so you don't have to tie up vehicle in a couple months.

Jan 30, 2013 | 2000 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

There is a cluncking noise in the front end when moving the steering wheel front wheel drive


If you are only hearing this clunking sound when you are turning then you need to have your cv axles replaced. Also known as half-axles. In a truck, these are known as the universal joints. You can take your vehicle to the local tire/front end clinic and they will tell you whether or not, it is worth the fix.

Oct 24, 2011 | 1996 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I have rubbing on the inside of my drivers side front tire, the passenger tire is fine. normally i would think this was an alignment issue but only the one tire i have a problem with. The ware is on the...


What you describe is most often caused by a bad tie-rod end, which is part of your steering. This causes the clunking that you feel when you turn, and the tire wear.
Jack up the front drivers side and when the wheel is off the ground, try to force it left and right. If you feel any play in it, a tie rod end is bad.
To find out if it is the inner or outer tie rod end, look underneath and locate the tie rod for that wheel- it will look like a pole about an inch thick. Get somebody to move the wheel left and right like you did, and look on either end of the tie rod for which end is moving. That will be your bad tie rod end. The "outer" is the one by the wheel- the other one is the "inner". Most often it is the outer tie rod end that goes bad.
It is important to get a bad tie rod end replaced as soon as possible because it can separate and cause you to lose control of your car when the wheel will suddenly turn either in or out, depending on which way you are steering when it fails. After a tie rod end is replaced, your car will need an alignment to set the adjustment correctly. If you are changing it yourself, mark how far the old one is threaded in so your alignment will be fairly close to where it was.
Good luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

Jun 09, 2011 | 1998 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

I have a 1996 Mazda 626 and have been told I need to replace the tie rods or I will have to replace my tires about every 6 months. When I went on line to try and order the tie rods there were several...


Jack the front of the car up high enough to get under it, put jack stands under the car for safety.

Start on either side and check the tie rod ends for looseness. If you have someone to help, have them hold one tire with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock while you grab the other tire the same way. Try to move the tire by pushing and pulling. If you feel movement, have your helper sit in the car and move the steering wheel 1/4 to 1/2 turn left and righ as you check the tie rods for which one or ones are loose.

Once you have found out which to replace, after they are replaced, you will need to have the car aligned.

Replacing tires every six months is not the worst--Sooner or later a sloppy tie rod let's go. They don't always go out all at once, but sooner or later they all need replaced.

Apr 12, 2011 | 1996 Mazda 626

2 Answers

Sterring is loose and noise in the left front end


Sounds like you need some front end parts. You can narrow down the parts you may need though. Get a jack and some jack stands and raise the front of your vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground. The first thing I would check is the tie rod ends as this would give you loose steering. Now that your wheels are off the ground, take both hands and grab each side of a front tire and wiggle it side to side. Keep your eye on the other front tire. If you can move the tire side to side at all, even a little bit, and the other tire does not move side to side with it, you have bad tie rods. Locate the point where the tie rod end connects to the steering knuckle at the wheel. The tie rod end will have a rubber boot with a bolt going through with a nut and probably a cotter pin holding the nut in. Now wiggle the tire again and keep your eye on this spot where the rubber boot meets the steering knuckle. If your knuckle moves (even a little) and the tie rod end does not, THAT tie rod end is bad. There are inner and outer tie rod ends. You want to check the pivot point (the place that the tie rod end is connected) on the inner and outer tie rod ends on both wheels. Again, you are looking for one side to move and the other to not move. Even if it only looks like a couple mm, it is bad. There should be NO movement whatsoever. Once you have identified all loose parts by moving the wheels side to side, we can now check ball joints and bearings. To do this is very similar to what we just did only this time we grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move it back and forth. Pull the top of the tire towards you and push the bottom of the tire away from you then vise versa. There should be absolutely no wiggle. If you do get a little play here, locate your upper and lower ball joints. these too will have rubber boots on them and just like the tie rod ends, you are going to keep your eye on the point where the boot meets the A-arm. If you see any movement here, that ball joint is bad. Now, if your wheel wiggles back and forth but your ball joints are tight (zero movement) then you have issues with the wheel bearings. If you have to replace any tie rod ends you will have to have an alignment done because your toe will be off and you will wear out your tires. When replacing a tie rod end, prior to taking it off, count the number of threads that are visible. You want to leave that same number of threads visible when you install the new one. Keep in mind, this only gets the alignment close enough to get to the shop to have it aligned. Good Luck!!

Jan 08, 2011 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Straightening the wheels for now


turn your steering wheel straight
look at both wheel to see which one is not straight ( may be both )
loose the tie rod end locking nut and turn the rod to whichever way that make the wheel straight.

Feb 28, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Caprice Classic

2 Answers

I have a 1994 Chevy k 1500 and it has a clunk in the driver side right about infront of the door. now i have had all the tie rod ends replaced and the ball joints have been checked and are fine. it only...


Sounds to me like you need a set of sway bar links replaced.It also may be the sway bar bushingsYou may want to check the front brakes as well,you could have a slider bolt missing.

Dec 16, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

One wheel wont turn


Turn, I assume you mean turn right and left?

Yes, that arm is likely the tie rod. There is no pin that can be replaced, the unit needs to be replaced.

If it is the outside tie rod end, you have an easy job ahead of you. Cost about $30 or so. You'll need a front end alignment.

If it is an inside rod end, you should replace your rack. Cost around $100. You'll need a front end alignment.

Have fun!
--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

Mar 12, 2009 | Lincoln Mark V Cars & Trucks

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