Question about 2007 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes G55
I have a mercedes G55, Armoured vehicle. It has only done 2481km since the last oil change and the engine has blown, the pistons have gone too. the mechanic has told me that it is $4000 to repair and he has done the work. I have paid him and he has given me a breakdown of costs. He has put FDEX oil in the engine now. Q He did not have a diagnostic machine, Is this his word or should he use one on all occasionsQ Should he put this type of oil in it.Q Am I over or undercharged.Q The mileage of the last oil change is 14638 and now it is 17119, Is this normal. InformationThe vehicle is in KurdistanThe drivers drive with care, supervision and is driven responsiblyThe mechanic claims he is a Mercedes mechanic for 20years.Itemised bill$1000 97mm AMG piston (#4)$300 rubber sets for the valve (#16)$200 Cylinder head (#2) and fees to cleanse engine interior$380 Valve cover (German) (#24)$240 Valve set (German)(~24)$120 Engine time case chain (#1)$80 Crankshaft rear and front rubber rings (#2)
SOURCE: Engine Light On
Do NOT take it to Jiffy Lube or any non-Mercedes place (independent shops are fine) for oil changes -- yes, the $150 oil changes are killer, but you need them. Your car is meant to go 14,000 miles give or take between oil changes. The oil (Mobil 1) and filters (Mann/Mahle/OE Genuine) that MB uses on your car are meant to last that long. The Fram/Purolator and Pennzoil/Quaker State/generic that Jiffy Lube puts in will last 3000 miles -- and even at that are not of sufficient quality to lubricate your engine properly.
Find a good independent Mercedes shop, it sounds like you're getting scammed by the dealer.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
hi,your oil filter is located at rear end of your cylinder head,intake manifold side,using a tool,remove the black plastic for oil filter,brake pad replacement, same procedure with ordinary car,for water pump,remove your radiator shroud,remove your belt tensioning device,before you remove your belt,make sure you draw or memorize the rotation,ty
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
The best oil for any car is 5W-30 synthetic, I personally recommend Mobile 1. 5W-30 Synthetic flows more rapidly to engine parts thereby reducing "dry start" wear. In addition, full (not part) synthetics contain fewer additives (they don't need them) than conventional oils. Conventional oil additives "burn off" rapidly (500-1000 miles) after an oil change and sludge accumulates over time as a result.
Synthetic oils use much less of these additives (5% vs 20-30%) than conventional (Dinosaur oil) so there's much less sludge to build up. Synthetic oil also has a more uniform molecule size, this extends oil longevity and reduces running temperature.
I've personally used Mobile 1 for many yeas in my cars and would recommend it although I'm quite sure that other FULL synthetics would offer similar benefits.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Is the merc dealer serviced??, sometimes if you change brands of oils in synthetics >>semi synthetics you will get excess oil useage. City driving will tend to use more oil, but the merc should be able to do its 10,000k betwwen oilchanges.
Anyway, check what oil is being used in both weight example 0-60w, 5w-30 etc and by brand, check that the API oil spec meets what is required for your vehicle example API SM, SJ, SL etc.
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
sounds like wiring problem engine harness
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
Testimonial: "OK THANKS FOR YOUR HELP, I HAVE CHECKED THE WIRING HARNESS AGAIN AND HAVE NOTICED THAT POWER TO NUMBER 1 INJECTOR DISAPPEARS AFTER THE INITIAL CRANKIN"
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