My sway bar link bolt broke, and the bar jumped overtop the axle, and ruined both rubber CV covers. Grr.. Ok, both a Sway Bar Link kit and CV axle Assy are required. I can see what happened, and I understand this.
Now my dealer also says my control arm bushings must also be replaced (why? i dont understand). Anyway, he says that adds +$20 for parts, but also adds another $275 for labor (!!!!!!)
Isnt there a significant labor overlap on these two jobs? This is at a Chevy dealership.
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He's probably talking about upper strut mounts/bearing plates or the rubber bumpstops under them. Either way, the strut assemblies have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace them. So he is probably figuring on replacing these items as well as the struts themselves, since everything is already apart. unless the van has very, very low miles. I would double check the front sway bar links though. These cause noise on bumps similar to a strut mount, and are notorious for premature failure. Moog makes them with grease fittings to get batter life. Both sides can usually be replaced for around $250 for parts and labor. When I do have one with bad strut mounts, I usually go ahead and figure worst case. I figure struts, upper mounts/bearing plates, bump-stops and bellows, and the sway bar links on any T&C with over 60K. Usually runs between $750 - $850 for parts and labor (including alignment) with a labor rate of $74.50 per hour. If it is your struts and not just the sway bar links, you can drive it for a while before they have to be replaced. Another option is complete strut assemblies from Monroe or KYB. They are completely assembled with all new parts and you can bolt them in youself to save come money. It takes all the specialty tools out of the job. This can be accomplished at home with simple hand tools in the driveway! Either way, check the sway bar links. If in doubt, replace them.
you are talking about the sway bar link. this also has a bolt and metal washers. i will show you a picture to make sure we are talking about the same thing, you will slide on a metal washer then a rubber one then in slides into arm from bottom or you can come down from the sway bar then slide another rubber washer and then a metal one next is a sleeve then a metal washer and then a rubber one, now it slides into control arm and then from bottom slide rubber then metal and the nut . hope this is helpful.
On the suspension the only thing that can leak are rack and pinion, shock asorbers,and motor mount and axle boot.there is no fluid in sway bar you need to find someone who will show you and who you trust
Remove the straps that hold the sway bar and use axle grease between the bar and the rubber bushings, should be two., also check the links at the outward ends to make sure the gromits aren't deteriated
you will need to disconnect the sway bar from the sway bar links(in most cases you might as well replace the links as well since they may snap while trying to remove them). You will then remove the sway bar bushing caps 2 bolts on each of the 2 caps and lower the sway bar. Is the bar cracked? should not require replacing if it isn't cracked. the rubber bushings and links do wear over time and yes the bar can crack.
The rear suspension on LH platform vehicles is a fully independent suspension. A stabilizer bar (also called a sway bar) is mounted in rubber isolator bushings and connects the rear struts through links. Note that the fuel tank must be removed to remove the stabilizer bar.
OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove both rear wheels.
Position a transmission jack under the fuel tank just forward of the crossmember to help support the fuel tank when crossmember is removed.
Remove the four crossmember to frame rail attaching bolts. Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the stabilizer bar to link assembly attaching nuts and remove the bar and isolator bushings as an assembly from the vehicle. Inspect the isolator bushings for damage or excessive wear and replace, if necessary.
Inspect for broken or distorted retainers and bushings. If bushing replacement is required, replacement bushings can be installed by locating the split in the bushing, prying open and removing the defective bushing from around the stabilizer bar.
Install the stabilizer bar and isolator bushings back into the vehicle as an assembly making sure bar is centered in vehicle so it doesn't contact other suspension components.
Install stabilizer bar attaching link onto stabilizer bar. Install new link to bar attaching nuts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Replace the sway bar bracket bolt with new after loosening or removing them. Only use original equipment bolts as replacements.
Install the fuel tank back onto the vehicle.
Position the crossmember on frame rails and install four mounting bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Remove transmission jack from under the fuel tank.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks.
Check and reset the rear wheel toe to specifications as required.