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First I would look for voltage drop of both end of battery terminal.not a look or seem tight . you have to do it (voltage drop) and terminal at alternator. now does alternator charging. take voltage of battery if the problem occur have voltage of battery taken like I read your problem it looks like wiring terminal ground and positive the noise you hear is probably low voltage to a relay and the dropping voltage make the relay switch inside relay cycling noise click or buzz
If you just hear a click, try this:
This procedure usually works:
·Check the battery cable connections:
Make sure the positive cable, makes a good connection at the battery and at the starter. Make sure the negative cable makes a good ground connection at the battery and (preferably) at the engine.
·Check the battery the simple way, like this:
Turn on the headlights, then try to start the car.If the headlights do not dim or go out, then the battery is likely ok.
·Check the starter and solenoid:
If the wiring looks ok, then look at the starter solenoid for a good connection, and proper voltage at the starter(10 volts minimum while cranking).
If the starter spins and no crank, the problem is most likely the Solenoid's bendix gear is stuck.
Have someone hit (not too hard) the starter while you try to start the car. This usually works by dislodging a stuck bendix gear.
·Make a simple test of the alternator:
If you can, somehow get the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be at least 13.6 volts to properly charge the battery.
Check batry terminals are secure & free from corosion, check security of earth strap to engine & main power wire on starter, if ok have the batry load tested to ensure it can perform under load as the starter needs a lot of current. Have you tried a jump start?
Sounds like the battery is dead.
You can try a jump start and see if the car will start. If it does I wouldn't have any issue with replacing the battery and see what happens.
You can also measure battery voltage with a voltmeter. You should see 12 volts with the key off, on, or cranking. If the battery voltage is not 12 volts than it is dead or low on charge.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
There is a strong possibility that you may have what is called a parasitic drain on your battery. Which simply means that there is something running in the background that is pulling a load on your battery. These kinds of drains can extremely hard to find. To help you determine of you have a parasitic drain you will need a multimeter. If you do not have one I would recommend taking your vehicle to a trusted automotive service center. Call then first to determine what they charge per hour for diagnostics. usually will be about 1 to 2 hours diagnostics time.
Check to see if you have spark at the coil. If you have spark at the coil and no spark at the plug, you probably have a bad distributor cap and/or rotor.
If there is no spark at the coil, you need to find out if there is voltage present at the B+ terminal of the coil.
No B+ could be anything from a bad ASD relay to a broken wire or burned fusible link.
If B+ voltage is present at the coil, the "NO-SPARK" condition could be caused by anything from a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM) To a bad Electronic Control Unit ((ECU) - AKA Engine Control Module)