2000 lincoln ls...Car dies and acts up untill it warms up
After about 5 min. of starting my car it will die and I have to keep turning the key on and off to start it, but it seems like it has something to do with the heater cuz if I turn on the heater it dies... It use to only act up when I turned on the heater so I took it to a shop and they replaced the coiles and it ran really good for like 2days then right back to the same stuff so they changed the trans. filter and still runs like ****. When I'm driving it all of a sudden where it says what gear you're in goes from d5 to E and car dies... PLEASE HELP!!!
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Re: 2000 lincoln ls...Car dies and acts up untill it...
There can be several things that could cause this concern on a LS and coil packs are certainly one of them. However since the problem is more previlant when turning on climate control I would think problem may be the dual climate control valve is shorting out.The e popping up on your gear indicator is telling me that the network is getting knocked off line, kinda like your home computer rebooting during a lightning storm.
You can do a self test on the climate control,use the follwing sequence. Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.
To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.
The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
If you hav e code 2798 or a 2800 then I would say this is definetly your concern and I would replace the dual climate control valve. it is located on the passenger side of vehicle next to the radiator,you will see coolant hoses going to it from the heater core.
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Pull the MAF sensor and give it a cleaning the correct way.Sometimes something shorts those probes(tiny wires and delicate) and your engine will cut a shine on you.
Look up how to clean the MAF sensor if you don't know how. don-ohio
Check for vacuum line leaks... Or there may be a vacuum device that is faulty. The diagram is on the inside of your hood. Also see if your temperature sensor is not giving false readings. It may register the engine as warm wen it is cold thus your tps does not feed enough o2 or fuel. Also see if the sensor on the air intake line is not dirty or damaged. That can cause this too. Lastly, and most importantly, see if your alternator is giving enough juice, both in voltage and in amperage... If your car is an automatic, it depends on the alternator to keep that engine running at normal, not the battery. It may be supplying too little power to the coil(s) and only gets better after a little while. Go get an engine diagnosis at any advanced auto parts store. It's free.That should help u.
Try taking the exhaust pipe loose at the manifold. I had a Chevy Suburban that acted the same way, it turned out to plugged catyletic converter. The converter wasn't letting the exhaust out, the truck had no power, it would stall and then start right up and great for about five seconds the run rough and quit. Once I disconnected the exhaust it started right up and ran great. You could also try taking the O2 sensors out (for test purposes) ahead of the converter that will give the exhaust a place to go
Either something is draining the power or your alternator is not recharging your battery. Do you have a DC voltmeter? With the engine running check the voltage accross the battery it should be about 14 volts. If it's down around 12.5 volts with engine running the alternator is not working. If you determine the the alternator is working and the battery goes dead, then there is a draw on the system. It could still be the alternator though, there are diodes in the alternator, a diode acts like a one way gate for electricity. With one bad diode the alternator will still work but, when you shut the car off the alternator drains the battery back down. Something is drawing it down, without testing equipment, you'll have to take it to a shop. Something you could try, after the car has been shut off for while, an hour or more, go feel if the alternator is warm or hot, if so it's drawing the battery down. Disconnect the battery overnight so it doesn't go dead on you.
I'm having a similar problem with my ford. By the sounds of it you have a fuel delivery problem, either clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump (there are other issues that can cause this problem). Steps will have to be taken to try and narrow the problem down. i.e. check for spark, fuel pressure. Have someone turn the key over while you listen near the tank, if you hear a whining or similar noise this usually means your fuel pump is working.