Question about 1998 Cadillac Seville

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Cooling fan direction??

My 1999 Seville SLS is overheating i changed water pump thermostat and coolant recovery tank cap possible head gasket problem according to dealer, but i found that only one of the fan turns on and the temp goes back to normal unless im driving, i noticed the the 2nd fan does not turn on at all, and when the other one stops turning the second fan moves a little in the opposite direction of the first fan, are both fans supposed to be turning in the same direction?

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  • juicedfbody Feb 17, 2009

    I imagine it does have not checket but i will tomorrow morning, earlier i did see 3 relays marked cooling fan #1 and cooling fan #2 a third one was marked cooling fan also but cant remember if it was 1 or 2 but none of the three were marked A/C.

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Yes, Massive air flow from the first fan is causing air to be brought in from not only the front of the radiator but from the fan right next to it causing reverse air flow through the fan. This intern can cause less dirrect airflow through the radiator. Also, the recirculation of hot air (from the first fan) into the second fan, across the radiator and back to the first fan can cause the vehicle to run hotter. Wile the car is moving there is enough air pressure from the outside of the vehicle to flow directly through the radiator with little fan assistance needed. If you have the engine running and and turn on the a/c, you should hear the fan change speed or even see the second one turn on (If the fan is working), there is no delay. You might have a bad relay and good fan, as there is a separate relay that activates this same fan for the a/c.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • Marco Avila
    Marco Avila Jun 03, 2010

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1998 Cadillac Seville SLS with overheating problem. Head gaskets repaired!! cost me 4K, all hoses checked and look good, belts replaced etc etc. Still overheats!! The cooling system (heating/AC) is acting...


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My 95 grand cherokee is overheating. It only does it while driving, at an idle it will run all day just fine. The guy i bought it from said the head gasket was out. I changed the head gasket and the...


The engine is kept cool by a liquid circulating through the engine to a radiator. In the radiator, the liquid is cooled by air passing through the radiator tubes. The coolant is circulated by a rotating water pump driven by the engine crankshaft. The complete engine cooling system consists of a radiator, recovery system, cooling fan, thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt.

Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.

While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.

Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.

Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.

Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and go driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if thsi is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below


TESTING


1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor.

2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem.

3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan.

5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor.

6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.



Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.

1 Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
2 If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

Replace the pump in this case.

You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.

Now. the last area of concern will be the thermostat. this is the most common issue that will inflict overheating in many vehicles. The thermostat is used to control the flow of engine coolant. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent coolant from circulating through the engine. As the engine begins to warm up, the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine to its normal operating temperature. Fuel economy and engine durability is increased when operated at normal operating temperature.


There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat.

One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.

a. Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant.
b. Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant.
c. When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open.
d. The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat.
e. If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.

The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.

1 Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom.
2 Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature.
3 Heat the water.
4 When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat.
5 If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
6 Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
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These gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration at the water outlet. Thermostat gaskets come with or without an adhesive substance. The adhesive rear side of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

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1 Answer

Overheating


CHANGE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.MAKE SURE COOLING FANS COMING ON WHEN ENGINE REACHES 190 DEGREES.TO SEE IF COOLANT FANS RUNNING TURN ON CAR AIR CONDITIONER TO SEE IF FANS RUN IF NOT CHECK COOLING FANS FUSES.IF FUSES GOOD I AM LOOKING AT A FAULTY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.IF ALL IS GOOD.NO LEAKS AT RADIATOR HOSES + HEATERS HOSES. NO LEAKS AT WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE OR GASKET.NO LEAKS AT RADIATOR.LAST RESORT CHECK ENGINE OIL. IF LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING.

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3 Answers

Overheating jeep wraNGLER 1991 4.0


When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

===

Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

===

MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

===

Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
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If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

===

A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

===
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Have you tried flushing out your radiator? Not sure that this sounds like a problem with a gasket but if all else fails just ask a mechanic... Sounds like this type of problem would be easy to diagnose if somebody has seen it before. Sorry I can't be of more help.

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1 Inspect Cooling System Mix Coolant level low or flow is restricted. grey_line.gif 2 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted, tensioned, missing, or worn water pump belt(s). grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat stuck closed grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, missing, or defective fan blade(s). grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Intake Manifold Plenum - Perform Leaking water pump gasket. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Cooling Fan Control Faulty cooling fan control or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Faulty radiator cooling fan switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Engine Temperature Sensor Faulty engine temperature sensor or circuit. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Temperature Switch Damaged or faulty temperature switch or temperature switch circuit. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Fan Clutch Worn, loose or faulty fan clutch. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Ported Vacuum Switch Damaged, leaking, or faulty ported vacuum switch. grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Radiator Obstructed radiator core or radiator cooling fins. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Head gasket leaking coolant into cylinders

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1 Answer

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2 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted, tensioned, missing, or worn water pump belt(s). grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat stuck closed grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, missing, or defective fan blade(s). grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Intake Manifold Plenum - Perform Leaking water pump gasket. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Cooling Fan Control Faulty cooling fan control or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Faulty radiator cooling fan switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Engine Temperature Sensor Faulty engine temperature sensor or circuit. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Temperature Switch Damaged or faulty temperature switch or temperature switch circuit. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Fan Clutch Worn, loose or faulty fan clutch. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Ported Vacuum Switch Damaged, leaking, or faulty ported vacuum switch. grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Radiator Obstructed radiator core or radiator cooling fins. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Head gasket leaking coolant into cylinders here is a list of things to check Shaun

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