Cooling fan direction??

two suggestions
have a compression test done to check for head gaskets and cracks
check that the thermostat has been installed correctly ( body to the head or block)
check the operation of the water temp sensor unit as it has to work to switch the fans on through the ECM

stuck thermostat
cooling fan motor slow to cool
hoses too soft or leaks at clamps
clogged radiator
head gasket blown

2002 Cadillac Seville Parts GM Parts Department Buy genuine GM auto parts...

check fans --cooling sensor --relays--check oil for coolant possible intake or head gasket leak

did you change your thermostats there is one on the motor and on radiator. i have a toyota and was told my motor was shot it was overheating and loosing coolant my prob was water pump and the radiator filler pipe had a pin hole in it. if you do not have water in your oil or oil in the rad then it is probabnly not the head . also if the fin on your radiator are bent you may need too change radiator..Also your radiator fan may not be working, you can hook direct or buy a new fan relay sensor that plugs in at the bottom of raiator, you can check this by getting motor hot and see if fan kicks on

The engine is kept cool by a liquid circulating through the engine to a radiator. In the radiator, the liquid is cooled by air passing through the radiator tubes. The coolant is circulated by a rotating water pump driven by the engine crankshaft. The complete engine cooling system consists of a radiator, recovery system, cooling fan, thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt.

Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.

While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.

Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.

Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.

Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and go driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if thsi is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below


TESTING


1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor.

2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem.

3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan.

5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor.

6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.



Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.

1 Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
2 If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

Replace the pump in this case.

You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.

Now. the last area of concern will be the thermostat. this is the most common issue that will inflict overheating in many vehicles. The thermostat is used to control the flow of engine coolant. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent coolant from circulating through the engine. As the engine begins to warm up, the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine to its normal operating temperature. Fuel economy and engine durability is increased when operated at normal operating temperature.


There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat.

One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.

a. Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant.
b. Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant.
c. When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open.
d. The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat.
e. If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.

The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.

1 Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom.
2 Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature.
3 Heat the water.
4 When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat.
5 If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
6 Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
7 Markings on the thermostat normally indicate which end should face toward the radiator. Regardless of the markings, the sensored end must always be installed toward the engine.
8 When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.

These gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration at the water outlet. Thermostat gaskets come with or without an adhesive substance. The adhesive rear side of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

CHANGE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.MAKE SURE COOLING FANS COMING ON WHEN ENGINE REACHES 190 DEGREES.TO SEE IF COOLANT FANS RUNNING TURN ON CAR AIR CONDITIONER TO SEE IF FANS RUN IF NOT CHECK COOLING FANS FUSES.IF FUSES GOOD I AM LOOKING AT A FAULTY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.IF ALL IS GOOD.NO LEAKS AT RADIATOR HOSES + HEATERS HOSES. NO LEAKS AT WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE OR GASKET.NO LEAKS AT RADIATOR.LAST RESORT CHECK ENGINE OIL. IF LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING.

When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.

Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.

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Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak

This test will kill two birds with one stone.

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MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!

RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!

You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!

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Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .

Top of the coolant reserve tank

Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.

Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.

Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark

After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.

If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.

Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.

If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.

Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.

Start monitor for coolant lost

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A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.

Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.

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Have you tried flushing out your radiator? Not sure that this sounds like a problem with a gasket but if all else fails just ask a mechanic... Sounds like this type of problem would be easy to diagnose if somebody has seen it before. Sorry I can't be of more help.

1 Inspect Cooling System Mix Coolant level low or flow is restricted. 2 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted, tensioned, missing, or worn water pump belt(s). 3 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap 5 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat stuck closed 6 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, missing, or defective fan blade(s). 8 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. 9 Inspect Intake Manifold Plenum - Perform Leaking water pump gasket. 10 Inspect Cooling Fan Control Faulty cooling fan control or circuit. 11 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Faulty radiator cooling fan switch or circuit. 12 Inspect Engine Temperature Sensor Faulty engine temperature sensor or circuit. 13 Inspect Temperature Switch Damaged or faulty temperature switch or temperature switch circuit. 14 Inspect Fan Clutch Worn, loose or faulty fan clutch. 15 Inspect Ported Vacuum Switch Damaged, leaking, or faulty ported vacuum switch. 16 Inspect Radiator Obstructed radiator core or radiator cooling fins. 17 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Head gasket leaking coolant into cylinders

2 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted, tensioned, missing, or worn water pump belt(s). 3 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap 5 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat stuck closed 6 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, missing, or defective fan blade(s). 8 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. 9 Inspect Intake Manifold Plenum - Perform Leaking water pump gasket. 10 Inspect Cooling Fan Control Faulty cooling fan control or circuit. 11 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Faulty radiator cooling fan switch or circuit. 12 Inspect Engine Temperature Sensor Faulty engine temperature sensor or circuit. 13 Inspect Temperature Switch Damaged or faulty temperature switch or temperature switch circuit. 14 Inspect Fan Clutch Worn, loose or faulty fan clutch. 15 Inspect Ported Vacuum Switch Damaged, leaking, or faulty ported vacuum switch. 16 Inspect Radiator Obstructed radiator core or radiator cooling fins. 17 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Head gasket leaking coolant into cylinders here is a list of things to check Shaun