Question about 1996 Lincoln Continental

2 Answers

1996 lincoln continental cant stay running no power

The cars altenator was replaced and battery a day from eachother but when i charge the battery the car starts no problem but let it run and it says check drive control then it says cheack charging systems then dash lights go out then battery dies again. so what the heck is wrong it has a new altenator it has a new battery both have been tested i even re spliced the + and - wires for a better battery post connection and i am still not able to keep the battery charged no lights stay on or anything. Also i dont thing the check driving control has nothin to do with it i think thats from me bypassing air shocks in back with spring shocks.


Also it seem that i am missing sumthing next to my wiper cleaner cap. there is a 4 prong plug and a little tube with a nut connector on the end of it and a metal bracket with 2 holes in it. to see where im talking about open ur hood and take the huge plastic shield off that covers the front of the engin and stuff and look next to the wiper fluid cap in passenger side front corner of the car directly behind the head light i dont know what it is but i see sumthing there in pictures i find online just have no idea what it is and would love to know.

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  • jay15168727 Feb 17, 2009

    Also the car sat for 2 years b4 i bought it a couple days ago but guy also said he had a hard time with the power from the battery aswell when he got it he only used it for a couple months b4 deploying.





    this isnt a fuel problem its a charging problem so keep that in mind



    Also whats that missing part????? lol

  • jay15168727 Feb 18, 2009

    Update The cars problem is its not charging the battery. the altenator is new the starter is now new and so is the battery all bought in same week and still is not charging the battery

  • jay15168727 Feb 21, 2009

    got another alternator just in case but car still not charging when i jump it and take off the + wire while its running it still dies. I have no idea why this is...

  • jay15168727 Feb 21, 2009

    got another alternator just in case but car still not charging when i jump it and take off the + wire while its running it still dies. I have no idea why this is...

  • jay15168727 Feb 25, 2009

    SOLVED THE PROBLEM MY SELF !!



    Ok here is the scoop for those who may run into this problem..



    The alternator has a Black Wire with a Orange stripe coming off the top of it. Thats the wire that takes the power to the battery. But in doing so it has to take the power to the battery and all the extra stuff in the car like the spark plus and lights ect.. so where would this connection take place? EZ there are 2 Red Positive wires coming off the battery 1 goes down to the Starter and one goes to the Power Distribution Box (Fuse box under the hood next to the battery) Follow where the red wire connects to that Power Distribution box its bolted to the front of it and right next to it is a Black wire with a orange stripe bolted right along side of the red one. Thats the same wire that comes off the alternator. This is where the alternator powers the battery and all the extras at the same time and how it does it is by a HUGE 175AMP Fuse the red wire bolts to one side of that fuse on the front of the box and the black/orange wire bolts on to the other side of it wich allows power from the alternator to travel through the fuse box and to the battery. Or if the alternator is out the Red Positive will flow pwer back words through the opposit side of the box, Power all the fuses in the box and right back down to your alternator i think this is where the major power drain comes from when your alternator goes out on thi car because it drains 100% faster than a older car or any car iv had. well i found the 175amp/32v fuse on accident i was trying to unbolt the red wire to check for a good connection and the front of the fuse broke and allowed me to see inside f it being the fuse isnt see through. I then een it was broken so i went to the auto parts store showed them it and they had never seen 1 either but the did have 1 its called a buss fuse it just protects th battery and extras from getting damaged if too much power is let out from the alternator. So after i replaced it the damn thing still DIDNT work little did i know there was a 30amp fuse i missed under the dash board inside the car where the very tiny fuses are inthe small fuse box. That controlls the Plug that plugs into the top of the alternator.. When b4 it showed power but it didnt matter cause the computer wasnt sending the correct power signal to the Voltage Regulator wich in this car is built into the Alternator its actually what u plug that plug into on the top of the alternator. So After replacing all that i took off the positive wire off the battery while it was running and this time it stayed running. This means my alternator is now doing its job.



    But u may ask why the hell did all of that stuff blow? Well its simple. The Voltage regulator Went out then the alternator lost its brain and made tons of power wich it sent to the 175Amp/32Volt Buss fuse wich it then blew cause it sent over 32 volts and because of the alternator making so much power it burnt out as well--- Also i found another fuse in the Power Distro Box 15amp Tiny fuse that was blown i think it blew in the process too and then blew the tiny 30amp fuse inside the car under the dash or maybe the Tiny one under the dash inside the car blew first and cause it all. who knows but thats how it all works

  • jay15168727 Feb 25, 2009

    Simple explanation on how a Alternator works.





    Ur belt in the engin converts the up and down energy/motion from the pistons into a circular motion thew the cam shaft into the pulleys wich move the belt..



    That spins the alternator



    wich when it spins it creates Power called AC Alternate Current

    (its power that can move in different directions)



    Then the Voltage regulator controlls how much power it made/let out by controlling either the negitive ground let into the alternator or the positive current let into the alternator. No one way has any benifit over the other.



    That power is then let out into diodes that turn the AC (Alternate Current) Into DC (Direct Current) because your battery Has DC and can only use DC power and DC better controlls how the current flows through the car from place to place in order....





    Thanks Everyone im out.

  • jay15168727 Feb 25, 2009

    BTW SORRY but the fuse i refurred to as the tiny 30 amp fuse under the dash is actually a 10 AMP fuse under the dash, its #11 on the fue pannel.

  • jay15168727 May 15, 2009

    No see in a lincoln conti and murcurys ect the voltage regulator in built into the housing of the alternator wich iv replaced the alternator so thats not it...





    any ways i fixed the problem and have moved on to others thanks guys

  • jay15168727 May 15, 2009

    this guy obviously didnt even read any thing i typed up there and doesnt know the voltage regulator is inside the alternator of a lincoln.... the problem was already solved and then he posed an attempt at a solution.. Please take the time to read this b4 you answer thats the point of the forum..

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    are u sure u didn't jump this backwards?

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    SPEND THE MONEY AND DO A LIVE CHAT SESSION FOR THIS ISSUE.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    SPEND THE MONEY AND DO A LIVE CHAT SESSION FOR THIS ISSUE.

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  • Expert
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Im assuming that would be your voltage regulator and wen that is missing your battery will not charge, it can also cause problems elswhere in the vehicle ny not delivering the right voltage, which could be why the drive control light keeps comin on

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

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  • Lincoln Master
  • 2,359 Answers

Inspect for loose alternator belt,belt tenstioner.

Loose the belt and check for free play and smooth turning on alternator.

Clean and tighten battery connectors.

Check DC voltage at idle,it should be between 13.8V to 14.2V.

====
For the last test,you may need a helper.

Flip the DVM meter to AC scale to 1V AC resolution to check for damage diodes that can cause AC ripple voltage.

The reading should be under 0.1V AC at 1500-3000 rpm

Posted on Dec 25, 2009

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