Question about 2000 Toyota Corolla

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Valve cover problem

Recently, my 2000 corolla ce has been loosing oil, and there is a strange noise comming from the engine, sort of a knocking/ticking noise. I took it in to get the oil changed and they told me the valve cover was loose. Is this the problem and can I fix it or should I just take it in and have it done?

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  • Tony-bobs Feb 16, 2009

    The reason I sound so unsure is because they guy at the lube shop just mumbled some reason why they weren't going to change my oil. I don't know much about cars, but with a chilton's manual, I feel confident that I could do most minor repairs, I just don't have the tools or space to pull out the engine if that what was required. No offense taken btw. Thanks for your help!

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To tighten the valve cover, all you need is a 3/8' ratchet, an extension and the right size metric socket. There is n specific order and they don't have to be real tight, just nice & snug. This will cover the oil loss. As for the ticking, it could be the lifters being low on oil.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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  • Toyota Master
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If your mechanically inclined you'll be alright, but by the sounds of it, your not even sure what that part is, ( no offence intended) so if that's the case, yes I would have it done, but don't be afraid to get a quote first.(Repairpal.com) quotes $78-$127 which includes parts & labor. Usually small garage's on low price end, and dealerships on high end.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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2000 Windstar, 3.8L, suddenly started smoking. Pulled over and opened hood only to find that most of my oil had dumped out on the ground. I shut it off before and internal damage. Had it towed home to


Check your PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilator). Normally located on a valve cover with a hose to the intake manifold. Remove it and shake it and if it does not have a rattling noise and is clogged, the valve is defective and not allowing pressure that builds up in the engine to be released through the intake manifold thereby forcing engine oil through any loose "exit" such as the dip stick tube or loose valve cover bolts, etc. This valve allows the engine to "breath" so to speak. No rattle...replace...not expensive as compared to what damage it can cause. Good luck...Ken

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Valve cover won't come off


Follow the detailed procedure mentioned in the link below to remove replace VALVE cover:----
Click the link below:---
VALVE COVER GASKET REMOVAL GUIDE http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/06/valve-cover-gasket-removal-guide.html

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For more help on these issues,check the link below:---
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Noise under hood


Hi there:
Before to replace some parts, I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

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1 Answer

I just got value cover replaced the next day its coming from bottom


i assume you're talking about oil leak,right? and i really hate to assume,but this time i will. you may have a leaking oil pressure sending unit. if it's coming from under the engine,and the valve cover gasket has been replaced recently, if you have'nt hit anything with the car that may have caused damage to your engine,I would look for a bad oil sending unit leaking,or a leaking oil filter,or a leaking oil pan gasket. or a simple oil drain bolt loose. if this does'nt help you,please repost your question to fixya.com

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