I used a code reader to find the problem, purchased the sensor, and now I am discovering that it will mean removing the throttle body? I can do it but I want to be sure that is the problem before I start.I have read that- TP sensor is often missdiagnosed, throttle body has to be replaced (can't remove the TP sensor), and that it may be a loose/dirty conection. The idle is irregular, the rpm's are up too high at times, loss of power.........any feedback would be helpfull at this point. I have even been told that I may just need to clean the throttle body out due to possible fuel contamination. Please help...eager to get started on something!
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Re: 2003 CR-V Throttle Position Sensor replacement
Try cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control valve.) by buying spray carb cleaner and removing the air cduct from the engine. On the fuel system side look into the hole and try to locate 2 holes on the side . With the engine running at about 1200 rpms, spray about 10 seconds worth of cleaner at the 2 holes. Turn the engine off. Let the cleaner soak. Then repeat procedure. The IAC can also be removed and cleaned if you wish.
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Your vehicle has electronic throttle control an the Throttle position sensor's are internal to the throttle body assembly ! Your vehicle has two throttle position sensors .
Throttle Body Assembly
The throttle assembly contains the following components:
The throttle blade
The throttle actuator motor
The throttle position (TP) sensor 1 and 2
You have to replace the Throttle Body Assembly !
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the inlet hose assembly from the throttle body. Disconnect the throttle body electrical connection. Disconnect the hose clamps from the plenum-to-runner connector using theJ 43914 .
Remove the intake plenum bolts. Remove the EGR passage bolt. Rotate the plenum up and remove the throttle body coolant hoses, EVAP hose, and vacuum line from the throttle body.
Remove the throttle body nuts. Remove the throttle body.
Most cars have a rev limiter between 2000 and 3000 rpms when transmission is in park. Sputtering in gear could be bad plugs, dirty throttle body, dirty Mass Air Flow, bad Coil on Plug.(COP) Clean throttle body, clean Mass Air Flow sensor, remove and inspect plugs, replace if over 50,000 miles. Inspect all COPs for cracks. Use code reader to isolate fault or faults.
I just finished fixing my 2005 Envoy with the same problem. Your problem is most likely a dirty throttle body. If you take it to a shop they are going to want to replace it for about $500. If you clean it, you can usually fix it for less than 10. There are a couple of good videos on youtube about removing and cleaning the throttle body. Some say not to touch the butterfly inside, but you can also pull the fuses for the fuel system, or do an idle relearn procedure after you clean the throttle body so the vehicle will run properly. Basically, you can clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner after removing the unit from the intake manifold. You will need a flat-head screw driver, a 10 mm socket with an extension to remove the vortec cover/box that covers most of the engine. There is a wire attached to the left rear corner of the box and an evap hose attached to the front left corner of the box. Then you remove the plug on the throttle body, the fuel line and four mounting bolts and the throttle body comes off. Don't use anything abrasive to clean the part--just throttle body cleaner. Also Don't drop the part. These seem to be rather delicate and using abrasives or dropping the unit will damage the coating on the inside of the throttle body. I do recommend watching the videos.
After cleaning the unit, you may need to do a throttle relearn procedure for the system to reset. look these instructions up online or call a GM dealer. You may also need to clear fault codes while driving the vehicle for the relearn procedure. It took about 20-25 minutes to remove and clean the throttle body, about 15 to reinstall it, and then 200 miles to reset the OBDII codes on the computer. My vehicle also has a faulty fuel guage wich made completing the OBD tests take longer than usual. The repair is pretty straight forward--by no means worth over $500 at a garage!!
You may want to check with the dealer or do some internet research on the code - - the generic code means there is a problem with the throttle position switch circuit. It could be different for a Mercury product.
Hi there: The P1128 means that the drive by wire throttle body has been stuck or is locked up. With the key off you should be able to remove the intake boot and take your fingers and push the throttle plate open, if you cannot this means the throttle plate or motor is stuck with either carbon or the mechanism has locked itself. Remove the battery cable or clear the codes with the code reader and see if they will clear before you attempt to start the car.
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Shown here is the P2104 obd2 code and their general meaning. For a brief description of any particular OBD2 code and how to fix the obd2 trouble code, please browsw below.
P2104 Engine TP Actuator Cntl System
This obd2 code is very common on newer vehicles which contain new design of throttle positioner sensor. Instead of putting a tps sensor at the side of your throttle body as in older engines, a throttle actuator control system is installed which eliminates the mechanical linkage (cable) between the throttle body and the throttle pedal. Under the throttle pedal, a throttle switch is installed and a throttle module or actuator is incorporated beside the throttle body. Because there is no mechanical device that wears out, it is more effecient in delivering better mileage and performance torque (besides...the actuator module performs better in getting all throttle signals to the ecm and trany).
To test this code, check the integrity of the wires going to both the throttle body actuator and the ecm including the throttle switch. Most of the time, if you have symptoms like trany going to a limp mode, the culprit originates from the trany circuit. However, if the symptom is engine related like hesitation, the problem resides in the throttle actuator itself which may sometimes includes the replacement of the whole throttle body assembly. Contact ATS if you need a wiring diagram or detailed fixes for your throttle actuator control system.
Before replacing the throttle control actuator and throttle body, try cleaning the throttle plates and all plug-in wiring connections. Also, watch out the throttle body mounting bolts which can easily break (use care) when removing them.
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed
YOU MAY GET A PEDAL POSITION SENSOR CODE AND A THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR INPUT CODE. IF YOU GET THESE CODES, THEN CHANGE THE THROTTLE BODY/THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. SINCE YOUR THROTTLE POSITON SENSOR IS PART OF THE BODY, YOU MUST CHANGE THE THROTTLE BODY BECAUSE THE T.P.S. IS RIVETED TO IT AND CANNOT BE PURCHASED SEPARATELY. IT IS A DEALER PART ONLY. P.S. BE CAREFUL IF YOU CHANGE THIS PART YOURSELF DUE TO THE FACT THAT COOLANT RUNS THROUGH THE BODY TO HELP DISSIPATE HEAT. HOPE THIS HELPS. PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED. THANK YOU FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA.
I discovered that its the throttle body sensor. Its not sensing the postion of the foot pedal. The throttle body has a sensor that is linked to your gas pedal via a cable. The spring that the repair man mentioned could be the issue. The sensor then communicates to the computer the position and then computer then applies fuel, the mass air sensor then will communicate to the computer and the computer will then allow more or less air to fuel ratio. So if your stomping on the gas and there is not any response, then your throttle body sensor is most likely going out.