Question about 1995 Ford Explorer

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Idle Air Control acting up.....

1995 Explorer (4x4 auto trans) has been not able to hold 1000 rpms at idle and frequently stalls. When this problem was occurring a year ago it was recommended that I replace the Idle Air Control, which subsequently fixed the problem for about a year. I moved up from San Diego to a cooler Portland, OR and the problem began acting up as soon as temps dropped (i don;t know if that's any correlation).

So I took off the IAC and cleaned it thoroughly with Electrical parts cleaner and being a fairly new part, there was not a whole lot to clean out. The interesting thing is that as soon as I put the part back on the truck ran perfectly for about 2 hours (aprox 30 miles of driving). Then all of the sudden it started not being able to hold idle when stopped at a light. Do I have a defective IAC or is it something else that I am missing?

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It could be the Idle Position Sensor . Since the IAC was cleaned .

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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Check your EGR valve, make sure that it is not clogged and the valve can move smoothly

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • Jeremy Reddick
    Jeremy Reddick Feb 16, 2009

    Ford is known for throwing the IAC control when it is really the EGR valve, you will remove the IAC and everything will check out ok then it will act up again. The code for this is very odd since it takes three different things and combines them into one code

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1 Answer

How to check the idle speed? my car stalls at the light


Hello Patricia Kennedy.

Besides a dirty air filter... listed below... idle air control valve... the idle speed is pretty tamper proof...

If the car has not been tuned up RECENTLY... that would be a STRONG recommendation before fine-tuning the idle speed.

The problem I am seeing ALL OVER the web... is the idle is too fast... (absolutely will cause STALLS).

All things being reasonable... your tachometer should show an RPM OF 650 to 1000 rpm... above that is quite EXCESSIVE...

A real TUNE-UP MANUAL would be required to properly set the SPEED ... but only after EVERYTHING had been serviced, cleaned and replaced...

Tuning up a car with DIRTY FILTERS & WORN spark plugs is an WASTE of MONEY!!

What I am seeing EVERYWHERE... is a HIGH IDLE problem... (above 2000 RPMs... That will ABSOLUTELY cause your car to stall at a STOP... because your TORQUE CONVERTER is designed to lock up (quit acting like a clutch)...

If your idle speed it above 1000 rpm... that WAS a BIG RECALL issue for GM engines...

Check out the links below... a high idle can stall an engine better than a low one...!!

Comment me back if I am not being particularly clear... or wwatch some of the videos I have attached.

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There is no "One" answer for this problem. You will need to run tests to confirm. What have you checked, tested, repaired, or replaced so far? Is the Engine Light on? If so, I need to know what the codes are. Please have them read. From you description, it sounds like your vehicle has a vacuum leak. The ECU is having a hard time controlling the idle. Check for vacuum leaks at hoses, the plenum, and brake booster. Check the EGR and Idle Air control valve. Check fuel-line pressure (check it with the engine off and compare it to the engine running). It is hard to test O2 sensors unless you know how to but you can remove them and do the "Shake Test". All you do is remove the O2 sensor and shake it next to your ear. If you hear a rattle noise, it is junk. It is possible that one or more fuel injectors are dirty, clogged, or worn (causing this issue). The more information you can provide me the better I can help you narrow this down, good luck.

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The test connector is in a holder at the back bottom of the fuse/relay box on the passenger side fender well. There are 2 parts to it: the main connector and the ground, you will need both connected to the diagnostic tool to get the codes.
Check your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve on the side of the intake. These get carbon fouled and tend to stick causing high rpm for extended times. Also the EGR valve should be checked (under the intake) as it will cause rough idle or stalling near idle.

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Engine stalls cold or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

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My 1992 ford exploer will not hold a steady idle. I replaced the throutle positioning sensor.when i start it, it revs to 2 rpms then cuts of and sometimes it runs but the rpms go up and down for about 1 to...


  1. baring a major vaccumm leak
  2. idle speed control motor is probably sticking
  3. it is a 2 wire soleniod with an air shuttle which allows air to bypass the throttle plate.
  4. when acting up at idle tap the idle valve repeatedly with a small hammer.
  5. does idle change?
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replace you intake air control (iac) valve right next to the throttle cable end two bolts hold it on and has two wire plug its about three inches long and round. hope this helps you.

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If a mouse chewed the wire into you may need to check all the wires. It sounds like you need to check the operation of the idle air control valve and it's wiring circuit. Good fortune!

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Low idle stalls out


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