Truck runs while cranking but when you let the key go to the run position it shuts off. replaced the ignition switch and key cylinder and this did not fix it or change what it is doing.
You would need to know if the coil has voltage when the key is in the on position.
The problem could be the ignition module, or the circuit back to the key switch. If the EEC relay is not working, you could have power for the coil in start coming from the starter relay-solenoid but not in run from the key switch.
There is power at the coil when the key is in the on position
Well there's your answer then. You'll have to trace the circuit back to the key switch.
I mean the circuit to the ignition module. The module is what grounds the coil to make it fire.
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SOURCE: 1989 F150 ignition cylinder switch
Remove the ignition switch cylinder and inspect the contacts in the column. Look for dark spots, scratches, excessive scuffing. My guess is that cleaning the contacts with a little tiny piece of sandpaper and perhaps bending them out a little (so there is more pressure between the contacts when you reinstall the cyclinder) will cure the problem.
SOURCE: ford starter won't disengage even after the ignition is switched
sounds like to me that the ignition is bad and sticking on the start positon
SOURCE: stuck ignition cylinder 1992 ford taurus
It is not necessary to have the dealer do this, think of the cash! Though it does require patience and time. The pin you are supposed to push in goes into a slot when you have it in run position, since you cannot turn it to run you have to make a slot for the pin to go into, with a drill. Be very careful as you only have a 1/4" of play before you break a washer behind the cylinder. Once you have drilled out the key far enough to the pin hole you can take a nail set and tap the pin up, you can tell when the pin clears the housing, then it just takes wiggle, patience and tinkering to get the cylinder to slide out, keep the green washer and the metal slot washer. Metal slot washer goes in first with green plastic washer ontop of that with lock cylinder in last. You can play around with the new lock cylinder and washer before insertion to determin correct direction.
Here are official directions with inoperable lock cylinder. They say drill out retaining pin but it just spun in circles for me - I looked at new cylinder and saw how it worked. retaining pin needs a place to go.
Removal & Installation (Non-Functional)
NOTE:Use this procedure to remove ignition lock cylinder if key is missing or cylinder is frozen.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disable air bag system. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS. Wait at least one minute for air bag back-up power supply to deplete. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Using a 1/8" bit, drill out retaining pin located below lock cylinder on housing. DO NOT drill deeper than 1/2".
Using channel lock pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from lock cylinder. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill down center of ignition lock key slot about 1 3/4" until lock cylinder breaks loose from its base.
Remove retainer, washer, and lock cylinder gear from housing. Remove metal shavings from lock cylinder bore. Replace housing if damaged. To install, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable. Check air bag system for proper system operation. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS.
SOURCE: 1997 ford explorer ignition problem
Are you aware? you have the key and tumbler and another part under the dash on the steering column called the ingition switch.
They both have to be aligned in sync to operate properly.
Question? is this a tilt steering wheel,if it is and you dont know anything about it I suggest you get a professionel to do this kind of job.
You really have to know what your doing for this one.
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