I can jump start my audi 1991, by getting 12 volts to the solenoid cable. To save on the cost of a new ignition barrell i wondered if i can connect to the barrell exit cables, or ?? and have a new switch to start the car. it is not worth the $400 for a new barrell.
Reasonably simple to put in a new switch, connected to cables coming out of the ignition switch. the problem is common, the alow metal 'tang' that actually turns the electrical switch had broken off. i now have some german glue that can fix this. getting the ignition assembly and switch out is not trivial, a local electrical place did that for me. with the switch part pulled out, we can start the car with anything, and with the key in the ignition to unlock the steering the car is drivable. to be sold 'as is'
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Click no start is typically a bad battery, bad starter, bad solenoid or loose dirty battery connections. But seems you have covered those items. Have you checked you negative battery cable where it attaches to the frame and motor? Use multi meter and check from positive of battery to the motor(block) for 12 volts. Also do this while turning key to start position. If voltage drops out when doing this double check battery voltage and all connections. If it does not drop then check the solenoid wire coming from ignition. When key in start position you should have a good twelve volts. If you you do then test the main leads hooked to solenoid for power. If solenoid wire from ignition has less than 12 volts double check connections at battery and also test the clutch pedal switch.
In this situation I would check the starter motor solenoid, you are lucky the ECU did not fry cause it would cost more than the car is worth. Starter motor is not that expensive, also check all main relays and fuses. Check the wiring as well. If all fine the ignition coil and ignition barrell would be last. If it is possible plug a computer and run diagnostics too.
unplug connector at ignition switch, bridge terminal 30 [battery power] on connector and terminal 50 power to starter solenoid. engine should turn over. plastic ignition switch can wear and not make contact. at times the lug on ignition barrel that turns the switch breaks off.
There are some fusible links mounted with the starter on the cable,check to see if they are burned into,pull on them they will pull apart like taffy.Also,check the neutral safety switch ,try in neutral ,see if it will start.Make sure the negative battery cable is good,this can cause the problem also,see if there is 12 volts on the purple wire on the starter solenoid when starting the engine,if not,check the neutral safety switch,if it is good,replace the ignition switch.
I don't know about the 98 Escort, a fuse on a starter circuit is very unusual.
You should check the voltage at the battery - then at the starter solenoid, battery side. If you have 12 volts at the battery, 12 volts at the battery side of the solenoid, great. Now, have a partner turn the key to start position and test the starter side of the solenoid. If you haved 12 volts with the key on start position, I would be thinking starter. If you don't have 12 volts on the battery side with the key in start position, I'd be thinking solenoid.
You could also jump the solenoid with a jumper cable to check the starter operation.
Use a volt meter if you have one - a 12 volt test light if you don't have a meter.
Did you check the condition of the positive cable or the large red power cable going down to the starter solenoid, and do you have 12 volts at the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position, this will be the small wire and terminal on the starter solenoid, if this has all been checked I would test the starter solenoid itself next. If you are not getting 12 volts when turning the key to the start position, you should double check fuses, and then possibly the ignition switch. Hope this gives you some other troubleshooting choices. Good luck and Happy Holidays!
1) Check the battery for 12 volts.
2) Trace to the Ignition switch or starter solenoid and see if you get 12 volts when the key is turned. If not, and you have 12 volts at the switch, then this points to the switch. If you do get 12 volts at the starter, then this points to the starter solenoid.
3) There are other reasons for not seeing 12 volts at the ignition switch - Is the neutral safety switch not working or is the car not in park or neutral? Is there a security system interfering?
check battery /cables also check for 12 volts at the solenoid when you are trying to start with key switch . If you have 12 volts at wiring but solenoid wont engage then you have a bad solenoid. If no 12 volts at wiring to solenoid then the problem is between the battery and the ignition switch and or relays to the switch and or a fuse or bad ignition switch !! Good Luck swampratt200
When you turn the key, you should at least hear the starter solenoid click. When you turn the key the ignition switch sends 12 volts to the Starter solenoid ( really just a relay). The Solenoid closes and applies 12 volts (at a high current) to the starter motor to crank the engine. If you have a way to measure voltage, you should get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is mounted on the top of the starter motor.If you get 12 volts but no cranking, the solenoid is not working. If you get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank the starter is defective. At this [point take a small hammer and tap the starter motor, not hard, just medium. Sometimes this will cause the starter motor to catch next time you turn the key. Best bet is to remove the starter motor (with solenoid attached) and take it to an Auto Zone type store where they can check it out for you. Be dure you disconnect the ground terminal of the battery before you attempt to remove the starter motor.
Hope this helps Good luck loringh PS Please leave a rating for me if appropriate Thks