Question about 1989 Jeep Cherokee

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No fire from the coil pack

I had the coil pack tested and it was good. changed out the cps and still no fire from the coil pack leading to the distributor. what am i forgetting or need to look at.

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  • joe joe Feb 15, 2009

    my apolagize. i meant the ignition module was tested .

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough May 11, 2010

    Are you talking about a coil or coil pack? 89 jeeps didn't have coil packs,They used a single coil and distributor,So if you don't have a distributor,then it's not an 89

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Check your ignition control module.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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I am working on a 1993toyota Corolla 1.8 no fire changed whole distributed assembly tested power coming to coil it's good still no spark checked all fuses there ok any sugestions


if the coil is tested fully and is good where have you checked for it being good? have you checked if the HT lead from the coil to the distributor is carrying power? If you have power at the distributor cap , all the contacts are good, the rotor is fine, (check current at the distributor cap centre pin) then the likely problem is the machanism for firing, i.e. Hall sensor . I would check all the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor etc. you should carry out the checks systematically. I.E. First check at the coil with a multi meter. Then check at the end of the Ht lead from coil to distributor , actually within the lead itself , for current. then attach it to distributor if it shows a current...if you are getting a current from the distributors centre pin the issue is probably the cap itself, the rotor arm, the firing system, it will probably be electronic as mechanical distributors went out some years before I think. or if that is okay, the leads themselves. I would guess that is is distributor cap or firing system related'

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Why is there no spark on the plug?


Two things spring to mind Pamela.

Immobilizer? Are there any warning lights on the dashboard?

Coil pack faulty. Some vehicles have one coil and a distributor. Some have a coil pack with individual coils that are electronically fired. To test a coil, you disconnect the positive connection, and leave the ground connection. Attach a wire to the battery and touch the positive connection on the coil. When you RELEASE the positive wire, the coil should spark to the High Tension lead to the plug. You can put one of your old plugs on the end of the HT lead and hold it to a part of the car that is earthed/grounded.

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the intake manifold plenum extension.
  3. Tag and disconnect the secondary wires, then remove the retainer(s) from the distributor cap, and position aside.
  4. Unfasten the 2 coil cover attaching screws, then lift the cover off.
  5. Remove the 4 coil-to-cap attaching screws and lift the ignition coil and leads from the cap. Fig. 1: The ignition coil is secured to the distributor cap with 4 screws 91032g04.gif
    Fig. 2: View of the ignition coil removed from the distributor cap 91032g05.gif

  6. Remove the ignition coil arc seal.
  7. Clean the cap with a soft cloth and inspect for defects. Replace if necessary. To install:
  8. Place a new seal on the distributor cap.
  9. Position the ignition coil to the distributor cap and secure with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
  10. Attach the coil electrical leads.
  11. Install the distributor cap cover.
  12. Attach the secondary wires, as tagged during removal and install the retainer(s).
  13. Install the intake manifold plenum extension.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Start by testing the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay, then the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) and CMH (Camshaft Position Sensor).

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