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if the coil is tested fully and is good where have you checked for it being good? have you checked if the HT lead from the coil to the distributor is carrying power? If you have power at the distributor cap , all the contacts are good, the rotor is fine, (check current at the distributor cap centre pin) then the likely problem is the machanism for firing, i.e. Hall sensor . I would check all the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor etc. you should carry out the checks systematically. I.E. First check at the coil with a multi meter. Then check at the end of the Ht lead from coil to distributor , actually within the lead itself , for current. then attach it to distributor if it shows a current...if you are getting a current from the distributors centre pin the issue is probably the cap itself, the rotor arm, the firing system, it will probably be electronic as mechanical distributors went out some years before I think. or if that is okay, the leads themselves. I would guess that is is distributor cap or firing system related'
Immobilizer? Are there any warning lights on the dashboard?
Coil pack faulty. Some vehicles have one coil and a distributor. Some have a coil pack with individual coils that are electronically fired. To test a coil, you disconnect the positive connection, and leave the ground connection. Attach a wire to the battery and touch the positive connection on the coil. When you RELEASE the positive wire, the coil should spark to the High Tension lead to the plug. You can put one of your old plugs on the end of the HT lead and hold it to a part of the car that is earthed/grounded.
Take the Ignition Control Module and have it tested at Auto Zone or Oreillys. If it tests ok, buy a tube of dielectric grease and coat the back of the module and reinstall it. Sometimes that will take care of it. If it still isn't firing right, then it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The new ICM would cost around $90. Not sure about the CPS. Myself, I would go ahead and replace the ICM, even though the old one tested positive. Good luck. I hope this helps.
Tag and disconnect the secondary wires, then remove the retainer(s) from the distributor cap, and position aside.
Unfasten the 2 coil cover attaching screws, then lift the cover off.
Remove the 4 coil-to-cap attaching screws and lift the ignition coil and leads from the cap.
Fig. 1: The ignition coil is secured to the distributor cap with 4 screws
Fig. 2: View of the ignition coil removed from the distributor cap
Remove the ignition coil arc seal.
Clean the cap with a soft cloth and inspect for defects. Replace if necessary.
Place a new seal on the distributor cap.
Position the ignition coil to the distributor cap and secure with the retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
Attach the coil electrical leads.
Install the distributor cap cover.
Attach the secondary wires, as tagged during removal and install the retainer(s).
Check the spark plug first. then if the plug is good you wil need a digital ohm meter to test the coil pack. if you need to know how to remove the coil pack let me know, to test put on ohms should not have more than 2 1/2 ohms restance betweent coil lead to coil connector. If you test the coil pack on both sides of the pack and get a reading then the coil is bad, if it does not read then you haave a bad fireing plate diode.
Sounds to me like a bad control module. The control module controls the order of which the coil pack fires. If that is bad you get no spark. Seems to me that it should have been your second option right after replacing the coil pack.