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Sounds blocked to me, with the limited info provided that is. Here's a couple often overlooked things to check if you havnt already: 1.The resorvoir cap located on top of the coolant tank behind battery. This is a critical item and must operate correctly. They do get worn and can malfunction and as with the thermo once overheated they need to be replaced. 2. The line from the top of the radiator that wraps the inside fender and up to the neck of the resorvoir. If you disconnect from resorvoir with engine running (but cool) you should have a steady flow of coolant. If its intermittent or weak this would indicate partial blockage. 3. The thermostat replacement, was it done by a qualified tech? This is the "artificial heart" looking junction down near the battery side of lower radiator. Because the engine block is a GM design it is cast to accomodate the thermo at the top of the engine as with a GM car. Rover does not use this and it is a clear passage from top hose to top end. It is not unheard of for an unfamliar tech to install a thermo here thinking the old was simply removed. Also the hoses may be connected to the wrong ports. Two of the three are the same size, check it out, your "heart" may be in backwards.
They seem like minor items but they are critical to the high pressure cooling system unique to Range Rover. Hope this helps you are on the right track. Whatever you do don't let it overheat to the red. It doesn't sound like a head gasket but the coolant isn't blending for one reason or another. Hope it helps, am happy to troubleshoot further if you post additional info.
I can't say without looking at it, but probably yes. If the engine had enough force in the cooling system to blow the hose, and the engine knocks, and it quits running its probably toast. You would need to run a compression test to check the cylinders and run the engine with the radiator cap off to see how long it would take to get hot again, and to check for exhaust fumes in the cooling system.
Your cooking the oil in the engine ( getting to hot/possible oil leak on top of engine). Check the front of the radiator for anything that will cause air not pass through the radiator.If you find any bugs/trash/or a build-up dust or dirt clean it out. Next check to see if the radiator and coolant recovery jug has any antifreeze in it. If not refill each to proper levels with a 50/50 mix antifreeze. Then if all is good run the car in the morning and as it is worming up put your hand on the upper radiator hose to feel if it is hot or cold. If the hose is hot and you can feel the antifreeze moving through the hose then the pump is working correctly. If not and the hose feels luke warm with no movement of fluid then the thermostat is stuck closed and will need to be replaced. Also you need to replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (ect) on engine. Hope this will help you.
First, remove the grille, then the top panel. Remove the viscous coupling and fan. Remove the top radiator mounts, Remove the coolant hoses and oil pipes, remove 4 bolts holding the A/C and intercooler/or PAS radiators (depending if yours is diesel or petrol.) then lift up and out the radiator. Fitting is reversal of removal.
Hope this helps
you need to replace the heater core and pressure text the radiator cap, replace if it leaks down go to a parts store to do this also you need to replace freeze plugs if you don't they will blow and ruin the engine,a slo check that the water pump is not bad, loosen the pump belt and see if you can wiggle the water pump with fan connected, if you have any play replace the water pump. and add new anti freeze.
Most likely the heat sensor.
Ensure you replace the gauge sensor with the correct type to suit your gauge.
(dont confused it with the overtemp alarm switch sensor).
Check you've got the right sensor by shorting it out to frame/ground and observing the gauge movement.