Ford laseer 1.6 ltr put new clutch in had to take distributor of put all back on new leads new spark plugs cleaned dissy up car wont start it spits and pops and my clutch wont billed up pressure hydrolic can enyone help also ive move d the dissy up and down as im trying to fire
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Re: ford laser kh 1.6 ltr carby with a big problem
You'll have to reset the timing marks on cam and crank, check no1 is at TDC, and look at distrubuter to make sure it firing on no1.
if you split the hydraulic line, you'll have to bleed the line.
good luck. cheers !
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what was the gap of the worn points start at 14 -16 thou top of the lobe of dissy opens points stop there to gap the points start number one spark plug lead pick up number one cyl on compression stroke 10 deg BTDC dwell should be 52
so fortunately for you the ford laser and the mazda 323 are one in the same. i would refer to this video to see if you can get a full walkthrough of how the process works. below are two links the first is the video the second is a google search with multiple links may be helpful to you as well. Water Pump Timing Belt Replacement Mazda 323Google
to start with if you got fuel to the distributor, there would be a massive explosion and a fire. Fuel goes to the carby or injectors and electrical spark is from the distributor . if you are new to the mechanics of a vehicle then get a workshop manual for your vehicle . If there is no fuel to the carby( carburettor) then the reasons will be that the pump is not working, tank not venting, filter blocked carby needle and seat problem or injector problems. If there is no spark at a plug lead then it could be immobiliser, coil, HT leads , coil or distributor ignition module.
The idle circuit on the KE and KF Laser carby engines is controlled by the ignition module inside the distributor. The symptoms are intermittent stalling. There are also windings inside the distibutor that should be replaced at the same time as the module because these can short out the module.
If there is spark at the wrong times then the timing is most likely 180 degrees out. This means that while it looks like it is timed correctly it isn't. The firing order should be 1342. If it is out your car is trying to fire on 4 instead of 1 even though you have set the distributor to 1.
I would recheck the cam timing, make sure the marks on the cam and cam housing are correctly aligned while at just before top dead centre.
Once you have that sorted, check to see if there is a mark on the distributor housing that corresponds to a mark on the engine block. If so, align those also. Hopefully your engine should start, if it doesn't then I would look at the ignitor module.
Price the module from Ford, then price the same module from Mazda for the 1990 323, they are the same car and have similar components.
I would check the distributor cap and rotor, if any evidence of even slight corrosion exists, this would give the exact symptoms you describe. Replace cap and rotor and (I generally do the wires and clean the plugs as well). If this is all well and still the problem exists then check the timing on the engine as the timing gear may have slipped. Cylinder 1 should be at the top of the stroke when you manually rotate the engine until the timing marks on the crank and timing chain cover align. You can check this with a pencil or a stick to see where the highest point is after rotating the crank if you do not have a timing light. Cylinder one is the closest to the front of the vehicle. Use a socket and extension bar to manually rotate the engine (in the direction it normally operates only). If ok then I would have the ignition module tested at the parts jobber. Hope this helps.