I drove the jeep today the engine light came on and the it started jolting and shifting hard . i got a diagnostic check done it said that my control circuits for injecters 6,7,1,and 2 were not working any idea what might have happend?
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Sounds like your engine timing needs to be advanced and yes I know your car is fuel injected and has coils but there is a small nut on back of jets that when loosed it can advance engine timing and the speed idle speed (driving with foot off the gas normally at coasting speed of 5mph.) My car did the same as yours but tune up and idle adjustment has my idle speed at 6 mph an no problems.
Okay, wish you would of listed the code # but thats okay, the way you explained it sounds like the gear selector switch is bad, this switch is located on the side of ******, the computer and ****** think its in d3 this is cause most of the time 90% of the time to a bad selector switch also called a neutral safety switch,
replace switch reset codes and check ****** fluid , not sure how far you drove like this but if fluid is brunt i would have it flushed, not drain and fill but flushed, a BG flush.
I think with a flush and selector switch you will be all set, good day.
its only the transmision taking up the slack of the fluid drive.a tip is to allways have your foot hard on the brake when changing into gear(safety factor) now if it were a limo, that would not be right......
Last time I checked a jolt wasn't a factory option...Last time I felt a jolt, I'd broken a spider gear in the differential! That dosen't mean that that's what you have...There are numerous reasons for that and if you hear or feel anything unusual I'd have it re-checked immediately. A single jolt with no other symptoms is very hard to track down or diagnose if it left no other "footprints" behind. It wouldn't hurt to have the shop that did the work at least give it a once over.
it sounds like your alternator is going out to me. you can go to your local autozone and have it checked. Also if your check engine light is on they will check for codes for free that will tell you the problem.
Check to make sure that you somehow did not disconnect or move any linkage that goes from the carburetor (or injection air inlet if you have f/i) to the transmission. on many vehicles this linkage controls internal trans pressure and can influence shift points and application harshness. Your post indicates that you were sleeping when you changed the filter...Don't work on cars unless you are awake!!! PS: If you have f/i, you would have to be underneath the car...did you somehow cut a wire or catch trans linkage when lifting it?
COULD BE A COUPLE OF THINGS. NO SPARK COULD BE A BAD COIL. I DON;T KNOW IF YOU HAVE THE OLD OR NEW TYPE OF COIL. YOUR NO FUEL PROBLEM COULD BE THE FUEL PUMP IN THE FUEL TANK. JEEPS WERE NOTED FOR THIS PROBLEM. THERE IS A CAP YOU CAN TAKE OFF THE FUEL RAIL IF IT IS FUEL INJECTED AND TURN THE KEY ON TO SEE IF THE PUMP IS WORKING. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO THIS AS FUEL WILL SPRAY EVERYWHERE IF THE PUMP IS WORKING. THAT WILL BE A FIRE HAZARD IF CONTACT IS MADE WITH AN ELECTRICAL SPARK. USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING THIS ITEM.
I have the same make and model. Overall a really nice car. I was driving down the freeway yesterday when the car jolted and I lost the gear lighting on my dash. The car drove in 'limp' mode the remainder of the way home. I started it up this morning and it ran fine for about 15 minutes then it went back to 'limp' mode and the dashboard gear indicatior lights went out again. Research indicates this is the Transmission control module which is located under the passanger side floorboard. In my case there is moisture in this area