Question about 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

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Fuel pump not working

Drove the truck, parked it. Came back and tried to start it, turned over fine, did not start. Checked spark, great, jumping nearly an inch from the screwdriver to the engine. Check fuel pressure, none, zero. (Just put a new one in two years ago from Car Quest, genuine Delphi GM unit). Never, never use Auto Zone or advance auto fuel pumps. They are junk and might last past the warranty of 1 year, but not in my case. Scream loudly. I could not hear the Delphi unit unless I took off the gas cap. Anyway, I checked for voltage at the plug before it goes into the tank. I had 12 volts to ground. So I changed the pump again. A new Delphi unit sold to me at cost. Carquest could not honor my warranty but treated me well, $76.00 for pump and sock, instead of $110. The pump did not work. I checked voltage at the plug where it plugs onto the pump, I had 12 volts across the plug. I ran out of time but checked the old pump with the new pigtail that came with the new pump, just across the battery terminal and it ran perfect. I checked the new pump, it ran perfect. Checked again at the plug at the fuel pump, terminals were good and I again had 12 volts acroos the plug contacts with the key in the on position. Two pumps that work good at the battery, but not in the tank with 12 volts present at the plug, in any position, ruling out the chance of a short. Twisted and turned the pump but it failed to run while plugged in at the fuel tank.

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  • flippyhippie Feb 21, 2009

    Had the same problem after wracking my feeble brain for 2 days I found a bad ground wire.Hope this helps

  • rains381 Feb 22, 2009

    still wont start after I put a new fuel pump new spider gear not getting gas to spark plugs. fuel pump has good pressure what else could it be?

  • jorten0308 Feb 25, 2009

    I rated you fix ya for two reasons, you were correct for two of my problems. Just a couple years apart. For the original question, you were right, my problem was at the connect where the harness pigtails out of the tank, and is fastened through the fuel pump/ sending unit bracket. it was burned from arcing, and the 12 volt I was reading was a bleed through from the fuel guage. I replaced this portion only and ran a new wire from the relay and the truck is great, back on track. Although, My service engine code says dummy, this original wire is branched back to the ECM to say it is sending voltage. I'll get to that though. Can't have the check engine light on for long. The other problem is rust was preventing the ground wire from making contact. I was given a gift when I looked at the fuel gauge was zero, (digital), when I knew I had over 1/2 tank. Went right to the problem and fixed it right when I drove it home. Thanks again

    Jeff Orten

  • jorten0308 Feb 25, 2009

    There is a question added to my original with a similar problem, just can't seem to get on it to add my response. So I will put it here.

    What I do know;

    #1. CPI fuel injection REQUIRES a minimum of 60 psi to overcome the spring pressure of the poppets from the CPI spider. 58 psi will cause rough idle and problems on the highway. Any less and you might be walking.

    #2. original equipment Delphi pumps are the only replacement for the original pump. GM designed, GM built. All other chain store pumps are built in a far off land with a heavier overload, but not a heavier motor. Carquest sells these for a few dollars more than "others". $110.00 +-. Job done, drive vehicle. forget about it.

    #3. I have gone through several fuel pumps from autozone just to wind up walking great distances when they went out. Delphi, I can't even hear it. Auto zone, Had to turn up the radio to keep it from irritating me. When I could not hear the autozone pump, it irritated me even more. Time to drop the tank AGAIN.



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I am have the exact same problem but my ground seems to be intact and getting a good ground. Do you have any other ideas on what may be cause the Fuel pump not to kick on?

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

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If you have power to the pump and it is not working, then you have a broken ground wire from the pump to the vehicle frame. To verify this, get a multi meter and set it to ohms. Put one lead in the negative side of the harness and the other lead to the vehicle frame. Make sure the frame is bare metal. You should have very little resistance. If it shows "OL," then the ground is open..or broken. Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009


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