There is an oil leak on the drivers side of the engine just above the belt tensioner and looks like some type of cover with 2 torex bolts holding it. Is that a chain tensioner and is it safe to take that cover off, or just it just need to be tightened?
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The cover is an access cover for a measure oil pressure. It is safe to take off the cover is the engine is off. There might be a little oil flow out, but that is normal. Mercedes has an updated seal and cover for that problem.
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Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine toT.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.
Easy fix I just did. (replacing the oil filter adapter gasket which is a common leak). Remove the air cleaner tube and housing. Release the tension on the belt. Remove the two front bolts on the air compressor. They are nuts but the stud will come out too which is fine. Under the car loosen the third air compressor bolt. This will give you enough room to loosen the hidden bolt on the oil filter adapter. It only needs to be loosened as the adapter is slotted there. Remove the other two bolts on the oil filter adapter and remove. Replace the gasket and install.
The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.
The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.
The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.
While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.
Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.
Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.
You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.
Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.
TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine construction. Removal 1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and splashguard. 2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt. CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage may result. Inspection 1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary, replace. 2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg). 3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification. Installation 1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2. NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston is at TDC on compression stroke. 2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets. Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily. 3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt. 4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation, reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article. Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co
IF YOU DONT SEE OIL FILTER UNDER THE ENGINE NEXT TO OIL PAN OR ON SIDE OF ENGINE LOOK ON THE UPPER SIDE OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD LOOK FOR A FILTER LOOKING HOUSING WITH A BUILT IN LARGE BOLT HEAD ON COVER HOUSING OIL FILTER IS IN THE HOUSING.
10.Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with timing mark "T" of the timing belt cover. Check that the timing mark of camshaft sprocket is aligned with the timing mark of cylinder head cover. (No.1 cylinder compression TDC position)
11.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley
12.Remove the crankshaft flange
13.Remove the 4 bolts and timing belt lower cover
14.Remove the timing belt tensioner and timing belt.
15.Remove the bolt and timing belt idler
16.Remove the crankshaft sprocket
17.Remove the cylinder head cover.
(1)Remove the wire harness bracket
(2)Remove the ignition coil.
(3)Remove the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose and the breather hose from the cylinder head cover
(4)Remove the engine cover bracket
(5)Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts and then remove the cover and gasket.
18.Remove the camshaft sprocket.
Hold the portion of the camshaft with a hexagonal wrench, and remove the bolt with a wrench and remove the camshaft sprocket.
1.Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque.
(1)Temporarily install the camshaft sprocket bolt
(2)Hold the portion of the camshaft with a hexagonal wrench, and tighten the bolt with a wrench Tightening torque :78.5 ~ 98.1N.m (8.0 ~ 10.0kgf.m, 57.9 ~ 72.3lb-ft)
2.Install the cylinder head cover.
(1)Install the cylinder head cover and bolts Tightening torque :7.8 ~ 9.8N.m (0.8 ~ 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb-ft)
(2)Install the engine cover bracket
(3)Install the PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose and breather hose to the cylinder head cover.
(4)Install the ignition coil.
3.Install the crankshaft sprocket
4.Align the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket with the No.1 piston placed at top dead center and its compression stroke.
5.Install the idler pulley and tighten the bolt to the specified torque.
(3)Then recheck the belt tension. Verify that when the tensioner and the tension side of the timing belt are pushed in horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 49N (11lb)], the timing belt cog end is aprox. 1/2 of the tensioner mounting bolt head radius (across flats) away from the bolt head center.
4)Timing belt tension measuring procedure (by a sonic tension guage) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction to set 1st piston on top dead center (TDC) and rotate crankshaft in counterclockwise to 90° then measure the belt tension in the middle of tension side span (in arrow direction of above illustration) by free vibration method.
9.Turn the crankshaft two turns in the operating direction (clockwise) and realign crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket timing mark.
10.Install the timing belt lower cover with 5bolts
oil filter screws onto an adapter housing which also has the pressure sending unit on it (above oil filter). This adapter housing bolts to the block with 3 bolts. if oil appears to be leaking from where the adapter housing meets the block (especially at the rear side of engine near bottom), then you need to replace the siamese o-rings between the adapter housing and the block ($12 part at dealer). remove lowest 12mm bolt and loosen top 2 12 mm bolts(top 2 bolts won't come out unless you drop the engine down, but loosening 1 inch is all you need), replace o-rings and retighten bolts. be careful not to get dirt/grit between block and adapter. just finished doing this to son's 95 2.7 v6 which was leaving an 8" puddle of oil after idling for only 1 minute-worked perfect
most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.
the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.