Question about 1999 Mercedes-Benz CLK

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I have an oil leak from under oil filter housing

There is an oil leak on the drivers side of the engine just above the belt tensioner and looks like some type of cover with 2 torex bolts holding it. Is that a chain tensioner and is it safe to take that cover off, or just it just need to be tightened?

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Yes it is safe to take it off. just put some sealant on it or replace the gasket and put it back . this happened to me on 1999 clk 430 . take the belt off to make it easy on your self

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: oil leak

Hi,  The cover is an access cover for a measure oil pressure. It is safe to take off the cover is the engine is off. There might be a little oil flow out, but that is normal. Mercedes has an updated seal and cover for that problem.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

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Front seal replacement


Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

Jun 28, 2014 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

How to change the gasket on the oil filter adapter


Easy fix I just did. (replacing the oil filter adapter gasket which is a common leak). Remove the air cleaner tube and housing. Release the tension on the belt. Remove the two front bolts on the air compressor. They are nuts but the stud will come out too which is fine. Under the car loosen the third air compressor bolt. This will give you enough room to loosen the hidden bolt on the oil filter adapter. It only needs to be loosened as the adapter is slotted there. Remove the other two bolts on the oil filter adapter and remove. Replace the gasket and install.

Nov 19, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet Malibu

2 Answers

Leaking oil on right side of motor.


The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.

The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.

The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.

While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.

Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.



Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.

You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.



Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.

Jun 26, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

How i do the timing on my 87 subaru gl awd


It's a bit of a pain but here is what you set it to:


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Aligning the marks on the flywheel with the marks on the flywheel cover



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Driver side timing belt (No. 2) and No. 2 tensioner-1.8L engine




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Passenger side timing belt (No. 1) and No. 1 tensioner


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
  3. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator belt.
  4. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and remove the water pump pulley.
  5. Disconnect the electrical harness from the oil pressure switch.
  6. Remove the dipstick tube.
  7. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  8. Remove the timing belt cover plate, if equipped.
  9. Remove the timing belt cover bolts on the left, right, and center covers.
  10. Remove the timing belt covers.
  11. Remove the rubber cover seal. Clean all mating surfaces.

To install:

  1. Install a new timing belt cover seal.
  2. Install the timing belt covers on the engine using the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
  3. Install the timing belt cover plate, if removed.
  4. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 69-76 ft. lbs. (93-103 Nm)
  5. Install the dipstick tube.
  6. Connect the electrical harness to the oil pressure switch.
  7. Install the water pump pulley and loosely install the mounting bolts.
  8. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension as necessary. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts.
  9. Tighten the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Jun 20, 2011 | 1987 Subaru Gl 4WD

2 Answers

Timing belt


TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine
construction.
Removal
1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at
TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan
and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and
splashguard.
2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing
pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move
pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage
may result.
Inspection
1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking
belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or
other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary,
replace.
2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring
length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not
be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg).
3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification.
Installation
1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and
temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on
compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with
mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft
until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper
camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2.
NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston
is at TDC on compression stroke.
2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump
sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt
is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets.
Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to
tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily.
3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate
crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine
rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are
aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing
tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt.
4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article.
Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks
Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co

Dec 13, 2010 | 1989 Isuzu Pickup 2WD

1 Answer

Where is the oil filter located on a 2008 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol engine?


IF YOU DONT SEE OIL FILTER UNDER THE ENGINE NEXT TO OIL PAN OR ON SIDE OF ENGINE LOOK ON THE UPPER SIDE OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD LOOK FOR A FILTER LOOKING HOUSING WITH A BUILT IN LARGE BOLT HEAD ON COVER HOUSING OIL FILTER IS IN THE HOUSING.

Oct 24, 2010 | 2007 Fiat Pininfarina

1 Answer

Ifailed to get on tdc before removing old timing belt how do I get back in time so Icanreplacebelt.


This is the complete procedure from the service manual on how to replace the timing belt start to finish, start over to assure u get it right, if u mess up the engine will be damaged

Removal for 1.6L engines : ONLY 2006 to 2009 CARS


Engine removal is not required for this procedure.

1.Remove the engine cover.

2.Remove the RH front wheel.

3.Remove the 2 bolts and RH side cover.

4.Temporarily loosen the water pump pulley bolts.

5.Remove the alternator drive belt

6.Remove the air conditioner compressor drive belt

7.Remove the power steering pump drive belt

8.Remove the 4 bolts and water pump pulley.

9.Remove the 4 bolts and
timing belt2_bing.gif upper cover

10.Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with timing mark "T" of the timing belt cover. Check that the timing mark of camshaft sprocket is aligned with the timing mark of cylinder head cover. (No.1 cylinder compression TDC position)

11.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley

12.Remove the crankshaft flange

13.Remove the 4 bolts and timing belt lower cover

14.Remove the timing belt tensioner and timing belt.

15.Remove the bolt and timing belt idler

16.Remove the crankshaft sprocket

17.Remove the cylinder head cover.

(1)Remove the wire harness bracket

(2)Remove the ignition coil.

(3)Remove the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose and the breather hose from the cylinder head cover

(4)Remove the engine cover bracket

(5)Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts and then remove the cover and gasket.

18.Remove the camshaft sprocket.

Hold the portion of the camshaft with a hexagonal wrench, and remove the bolt with a wrench and remove the camshaft sprocket.

INSTALLATION:

1.Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque.

(1)Temporarily install the camshaft sprocket bolt

(2)Hold the portion of the camshaft with a hexagonal wrench, and tighten the bolt with a wrench
Tightening torque :78.5 ~ 98.1N.m (8.0 ~ 10.0kgf.m, 57.9 ~ 72.3lb-ft)



2.Install the cylinder head cover.

(1)Install the cylinder head cover and bolts
Tightening torque :7.8 ~ 9.8N.m (0.8 ~ 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb-ft)

(2)Install the engine cover bracket

(3)Install the PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose and breather hose to the cylinder head cover.

(4)Install the ignition coil.

3.Install the crankshaft sprocket

4.Align the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket with the No.1 piston placed at top dead center and its compression stroke.

5.Install the idler pulley and tighten the bolt to the specified torque.

Tightening torque :42.2 ~ 53.9N.m (4.3 ~ 5.5kgf.m, 31.1 ~ 39.8lb-ft)

6.Temporarily install the timing belt tensioner

7.Install the belt so as not give slack at each center of shaft. Use the following order when installing timing belt.
Crankshaft sprocket →idler pulley →camshaft sprocket →timing belt tensioner

8.Adjust the timing belt tension.

(1)Loosen the tensioner pulley mounting bolt and apply tension to the timing belt.

(2)After checking the alignment between each sprocket and each timing belt tooth, tighten the mounting bolt and one by one.

Tightening torque :19.6 ~ 26.5N.m (2.0 ~ 2.7kgf.m, 14.5 ~ 19.5lb-ft)

(3)Then recheck the belt tension.
Verify that when the tensioner and the tension side of the timing belt are pushed in horizontally with a moderate force [approx. 49N (11lb)], the timing belt cog end is aprox. 1/2 of the tensioner mounting bolt head radius (across flats) away from the bolt head center.

4)Timing belt tension measuring procedure
(by a sonic tension guage)
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction to set 1st piston on top dead center (TDC) and rotate crankshaft in counterclockwise to 90° then measure the belt tension in the middle of tension side span (in arrow direction of above illustration) by free vibration method.


9.Turn the crankshaft two turns in the operating direction (clockwise) and realign crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket timing mark.


10.Install the timing belt lower cover with 5bolts

Tightening torque :7.8 ~ 9.8N.m (0.8 ~ 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb-ft)

11.Install the flange and crankshaft pulley, and then tighten crankshaft pulley bolt. Make sure that crankshaft sprocket pin fits the small hole in the pulley.

Tightening torque :137.3 ~ 147.1N.m (14.0 ~ 15.0kgf.m, 101.3 ~ 108.5lb-ft)

12.Install the timing belt upper cover with 4 bolts.

Tightening torque :7.8 ~ 9.8N.m (0.8 ~ 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb-ft)

13.Install the water pump pulley and 4 bolts.

14.Install the power steering pump drive belt

15.Install the air conditioner compressor drive belt

16.Install the alternator drive belt

17.Install the RH side cover with 2 bolts

18.Install the RH front wheel.


Tightening torque :88.3 ~ 98.1N.m (9.0 ~ 10.0kgf.m, 65.1 ~ 72.3lb-ft)

19.Install the engine cover with bolts.


Tightening torque :3.9 ~ 5.9N.m (0.4 ~ 0.6kgf.m, 2.9 ~ 4.3lb-ft)

May 20, 2010 | 2006 Kia Sorento

2 Answers

Looks like the oil is leaking out right above the


oil filter screws onto an adapter housing which also has the pressure sending unit on it (above oil filter). This adapter housing bolts to the block with 3 bolts. if oil appears to be leaking from where the adapter housing meets the block (especially at the rear side of engine near bottom), then you need to replace the siamese o-rings between the adapter housing and the block ($12 part at dealer). remove lowest 12mm bolt and loosen top 2 12 mm bolts(top 2 bolts won't come out unless you drop the engine down, but loosening 1 inch is all you need), replace o-rings and retighten bolts. be careful not to get dirt/grit between block and adapter. just finished doing this to son's 95 2.7 v6 which was leaving an 8" puddle of oil after idling for only 1 minute-worked perfect

Feb 24, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

5 Answers

Head Gasket?? Valve cover Gasket???


most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.

the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.

if you have more question please ask.

Nov 12, 2009 | 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door

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