Question about 1997 Honda Accord
How do I replace heater hose on 97 Honda Accord?
Put your car on jackstands then identify the hoses. They will be going into the firewall as a pair near the center of the car.
Because of the **** conditions, I would suggest taking it to a mechanic.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's probably the valve in the cooling hose that lets coolant flow into your heater core. This is up against the firewall about 3/4 of the way down on the passenger side. When you switch the knob from warm to cool, you should be able to see the little "arm" on the hose move back and forth. You may need someone else to watch as you move the temperature knob back and forth.
Also, watch out for over heating (not due to the valve), because it could mean that you could need to replace your water pump and/or thermostat in the near future. If you haven't replaced your timing belt recently (or if you have) and didn't change the water pump at the same time (Honda recommended) Your water pump could be failing.
Odds are pretty good though that it's just where the cable connects to the valve. It may have rusted over time and stuck, or broke the end of the cable, or just need lubricating/bending back into place.
If this is not the case, then you may just have a clogged heater core and should have your coolant system thoroughally flushed in the near future. If none of these work, you may need to replace your heater core.
Drop me a line when you check these over and I'll see what I can come up with.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
possibly your power window regulator is out. basically check the fuses first to make sure you have not blown that, if it is good, then you can order a new window regulator from the dealer or online @ autopartswarehouse.com. to replace the window regulator you will need to will need to remove the door panel, start with the screws on the handle and the arm rest, covered with a plastic cap. the door panel which can be pryed from the bottom with a flat blade screw driver or flat pry bar, it will make a snapping sound. three bolts on the regulator 4 bolts on the window tracks and 2 bolts securing the window, re assemble as you have taken apart, Good Luck!!
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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