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Raising the idle would only put undue wear on the transmission shortening it's life. If pressure is low, you may need to replace a worn oil pump. Or depending on the mileage and maintenance, you may need to rebuild the engine. I am driving a 97 5.2l with full tow package with 216,000 miles on it, and I service it faithfully. It still does't smoke or use oil. The pressure does drop to about 20 when idling ( On the dash gauge, who knows how accurate it is ) then goes up to 40 when accelerated to start out. Sounds to me that your problem may be oil pump. FYI if you have very bad gas mileage, I have found a trick that will increase it. replace the stock fuel injectors with 5 hole pontiff injectors from early 90's neons. They are a perfect fit & increased my mileage 25% +. Good luck
Low oil pressure at idle can be caused by an engine with worn rod or main bearings due to (usually) high mileage . This however does not mean the engine is still not serviceable as long as the oil pressure is low only at idle. The pressure should at minimum get into the normal range at anything above idle speed.Not much oil pressure is really necessary at LOW speed. At low speed, as long as there is oil getting to the bearings, even at low pressure, you are OK. In a high mileage engine the oil pressure is often low at idle simply because the oil pump is turning slowly and cannot maintain higher pressure between the larger than normal crankshaft and bearing clearances. As speed increases the pump turns faster and supplies more oil and the pressure should go higher. Low pressure as long as it is only at idle is not a problem. However at higher speeds the pressure should be in the normal range. Such a worn engine can benefit from higher viscosity (thicker) oil such as 20W-50 in above freezing weather and 10W-40 in winter. That will increase idle pressure and the thicker oil film maintains a better film between the worn parts
Oil gauge may be bad, you said you changed the oil sending unit, and tried a aftermarket which worked, so the other option is to have you oil gauge checked. The sending unit may be good but you gauge is not reading proper.
Was the sending unit an aftermarket part?We like to install the original part back into most vehicle, but because of people price shopping, this can cause some issues. If the switch is working properly, the gauge should rise as the engine RPM's increase as you stated. With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the sending unit wire and ground it. The gauge should go to the highest reading, and that checks the wire, and the gauge. I suspect that the sending unit is failed or not the proper one for your vehicle.
You'll need to determine if the oil pressure is actually changing, or if the sending unit or gauge is lying to you. Be certain the oil level is up to normal, then check the actual oil pressure with a test gauge. If the pressure varies (drops) at engine idle, perhaps your pressure bypass is defective, or perhaps the oil pump is worn. Testing with a known good pressure gauge should lead you in the right direction.
Last week my 2001 Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 was dropping below 10 and my "check gauges" light and chime came on. My sending unit was bad. I could see it was bad because oil was getting through the unit and leaking very slow. It's located above the oil filter. Easy fix, but the unit was over $50 and the 1 1/16 special deep socket for sending units was over $10.
have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee with 84,000 miles. started having issues with oil pressure gauge going crazy up and down, beeping. had oil pump replaced per mechanics recommendation. didn't help won't hold pressure---only registers about 2. now they tell me i need a new motor!!! just bought vehicle less than 1 yr ago...had carfax clean report!!!!any suggestions?
Hook up a manifold gauge (mechanical temporary use gauge, used by mechanics) and test the oil pressure. You probably need to replace the gauge. The computer sends info through a printed circuit board behind gauge cluster and sometimes you have to replace the whole gauge cluster.