I have a 2003 honda Pilot. The DRL (day time running light) indicator is always on unless I turn on the low or high beam lights. Only the passenger side DRL does'nt work but the low/high beams work fine. I changed the bulb but didn't fix the problem... For some reason, the passenger DRL starts working after running the car for 30 minutes or so...why does it need to warm up for one of the DRL to work... Problem with fuse or relay???
The problem with the DRL issue describd in the above posts is the DRl module(it needs to be replaced). The buzzing relay and intermittent on/off of passenger side DRl are indicators that the module needs to be replaced.
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No on the fuse . The LH HDLP and RH HDLP fuse in the fuse block - under hood, supply battery positive voltage to both low and high beam lamps at all times. For manual operation, when the headlamp switch is in the ON position, the headlamp switch supplies ground directly to the headlamps and to the body control module (BCM) on the headlamp low or high beam signal circuit, depending on the position of the headlamp dimmer switch. The BCM uses this signal to determine if the conditions are present to illuminate the daytime running lamps or park lamps.
The headlamps may be turned on 2 different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the ON position, for manual operation. Second, with the headlamp switch placed in the OFF position activating automatic lamp control (ALC).For ALC operation, the BCM receives a signal from the ambient light sensor indicating a low or high ambient, outside, light level. Under low light conditions the BCM grounds the headlamp relay control circuit energizing the headlamp control relay. The now closed relay supplies ground through the headlamp switch to the headlamps and the BCM on the headlamp low or high beam signal circuit, depending on the position of the headlamp dimmer switch. When the BCM grounds the headlamp relay control circuit it also grounds the park lamp relay control circuit illuminating the park lamps. The headlamp relay is grounded at G203.
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
The low beam headlamps operate at reduced intensity when in daytime running lamps (DRL) mode. The ground circuit to the switch side of the DRL relay has a resistor in-line to reduce the intensity of the low beam headlamps for DRL operation. The body control module (BCM) receives a signal from the ambient light sensor indicating a low or high ambient, outside, light level. Under daylight conditions the BCM grounds the DRL relay control circuit energizing the DRL control relay. The now closed relay supplies ground directly to the low beam headlamps and to the BCM on the headlamp low beam signal circuit. The low beam headlamps now illuminate with reduced intensity. The DRL relay is grounded at G203. Any time the headlamps are illuminated the DRL will not illuminate. Manual park lamps do not effect DRL operation.
in canada? with DRL?
is the charge (battery Light on running)
nice photo but do name all lights, i see idle is at 800rpm good.
i see check engine light there, top left. so you need to scan PCM
using any scan tool
that is first.
DRL can shut down for other failures one is charge lamp. on.
if charge lamp is on , do not drive far, or it will stall and battery will discharge and be stranded. (till AAA auto tow is called <jumped)
High beams dont go on at all? Does the DRL light dissapear when u turn on the headlights? Now, because your high beams dont work, it more likely means that you need to replace your bulbs. Because if it would be a problem in the car itself, only the DRL system would fail. Im 80% sure that changing your bulbs will solve the problem.
On my 2007 Honda CR-V The DRL code appeared on the dash board. Additionally I had only one high beam (on the passenger side); both low beams were fine, but I did not have a Daytime Running Light on the drivers side. The DRL code was really misleading because the real problem was that the high beam element in the headlight bulb was burned out. Note that the daytime running light is not a seperate bulb -- it is the high beam element which is powered at a low voltage. Once I replaced the head light bulb everything worked fine and the DRL code on the dash board was gone. So if the DRL message appears what you really need to do is replace the headlight bulb (there are YouTube videos which show how to do this - but search for headlight replacement, not for DRL fix). Be careful not to touch the new bulb with you hands since premature burnout can occur from the grease off your skin. I got my bulb from Wal-Mart for $8.88 (it's a 9003/HB2 for the 2007 CR-V) -- that's a pretty cheap fix.
Are you sure it's your high beam and not your DRL. Your DRL light will always be on through the day when you do not have your lights on. Indicating that your drl's are on. DRL (Daytime Running Lights) are your high beam headlights at a low wattage. The only other sympton could be that you have a burnt out headlight and this is telling you so, by having the H.B. light on. on your dash.
The day time running lamps are your headlights, the parking lights also conventionally known as the running lights serve no purpose during daylight hours and as such are not necessary in the daytime, and are not illuminated by the DRL module. The DRL (Daytime Running Lights) module illuminates the headlamps in a slightly dimmer state than night time dim headlamps, but does not turn on the conventional running lights. The only way you'll get conventional running lights during the day is to turn them on manually. I just reviewed the wiring schematics for that system, and the DRL relay bypasses the dimmer switch when active and prevents high beam operation, and feeds current directly to the low beam headlights, there is no connection to the parking light circuit from the DRL module wiring.
Some time back I found some data on a similar website suggesting that the Day Light Running circuit board, just under the steering column, developed cracks in some of the soldered joints. Your high beams should also be affected with loss of day light running lights. Resoldering repaired the continuity of the circuits. Ours is now working quite reliably. Some of the defective areas developed slight brownish discoloration, that's how I was told to recognise the areas to be resoldered. Hope this will help you solve your problem.