I have a 1985 mazda rx-7 with carb will start won't turn over
After a basic tune-up, plugs ,wires, distributor cap, and rotor button car ran great for a while then would not turn over. pulled fuel line and it is getting plenty of fuel. could the distributor ignitors be the problem or the coils?
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Quite easy actually. There are two rotors 1 - front and 2 - rear. there are two plugs per rotor Trailing - top and Leading - lower.
The distributor cap has letters and combination letters/numbers on it (if it does not you need to get a good quality cap) L and T and L1 T1 L2 T2 L is leading coil, T trail coil, pretty self explanatory from there
My recommendation from nearly 40 experience with rotary's is to use Mazda Mitsubishi Cap Rotor and NGK wires and plugs. Has been good enough for factory race teams also.
An issue with most aftermarket rotors is that they do not fit properly and can cause changes in timing and worse case, damage both cap and rotor.
Replace your fuel filter first, cheap and easy to rule out, probably needs it anyways. Could also be a massive vacuum leak. On that year's carb there are 2 adjustments... Here's a page on idle tuning: http://sterlingmetalworks.com/tuning_the_nikki.htm
There are 2, the leading you turn the dist to line up the mark, then the trailing you move the trailing vac advance to line up the mark (about 10mm after the first mark. It usually never needs to be adjusted unless someone has messed with it. Its hard to describe without a diagram.
Only three possiblities. no gas, no spark, or the timing of the 2. So first follow the full lines and disconnect and turn on the ignition. That will start the full pump. you should see gas flow. Next remove a plug wire and dont hold it but place it near a plug or anything metal on the engine. You should see a spark when cranking the car. Finally its the timming of the two. remove spark plug from number 1 cylinder, with a wrench turn the crank shaft around untill the cylinder comes to top dead center. Look through the spark plug hole you should see the piston top. Now take off the distrbuter cap and look to see which terminal the rotor is touching. follow the wire and make sure it is the same wire that goes to the number 1 cylinder. Of course if the distributor rotor isnt rotating then of course your timing belt is broke. Good Luck.
I had the same problem right after installing a 45 DCOE on a stock 12A. The problem was the carburetor was not properly tuned. To tune it, refer to "Weber Carburetors", by Pat Braden, from HP Books. The main thing I had to do was adjust the idle mixture screws. Seat them lightly (screw them all the way down, but not tightly), then turn both of them out 3 and a half turns. Pull the choke and turn the key WITHOUT pumping the gas pedal. You may also need to adjust the idle speed screw, I've found that about 900 or 1000 rpms is a good idle speed for my particular aplication, but when I first started it with the Weber, I had it at 1500 rpm. It took me about a week of driving it and adjusting it to different settings to get it to run well with a reasonable idle speed. Good luck!