Question about 1997 Saab 900
Hey there mr guru. david here. you helped me out a few month back with my recently inherited mother's 1986 buick century ltd. V6. i had a water infiltration problem in the front passenger cabin floor. well, i did a heater core and line replacement with my buick dealer to a tune of 600, which didnt rectify the prob. and you said if it wasnt that, it was prob a windshield leak. EUREKA! took it to a glass place, and sure enough, there were two leaks in the top seal of the windshield, on the passenger seat side. yay! problem solved. thanks mate. now, i am having a few more problems:1) the speedometer, odometer, and trip meter do not work at all. could have the heater core install compromised the cable connection (i was under the impression that the dash had to be removed to access the heater core...yes? no? )2) usually, but not always, after about 15mins of running in city traffic, the "service engine soon' light comes on. and stays on, until the car is turned off. doesnt seem to make a difference in performance, but it is unsettling...3) and finally, sometimes, the car dies completely as i break to a stop, upon initial startup. never seems to happen once its warmed up...i live in vancouver BC canada, and my car is parked 3 stories below ground, so it is always dry-parked. i have noticed though, if i am out, and leave the car parked OUTSIDE overnight, its reluctant to start, and i pretty much have to put the pedal to the metal to get it to start, and vancouver is pretty mild temp wise.any help my friend would be appreciated. should i just get rid of it? i love this car. its in such mint shape bud. crushed velvet interior. comfy seats. its a beaut!thanks man.david lypchuk604.609.9661
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5. I had a similiar problem. The car would always run cold. It would get hot and the engine would quit. It could be anywhere. One mile from start to 50 miles from start. Once it cooled down it would re-start but the cool down time was always different. Only difference for me was my car would crank, just not run. Replaced the crank position sensor ($60), no more problems! Good luck!
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
that is likely your check engine light... if you live near an autozone they can scan it for free to tell you what the problem is.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Is your SAAB automatic? If so, it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch. I have had the same problem, it is very common in automatic Saab 9-3 models made in 1999-2002.
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
SOURCE: saab 900 clutch problem
well you need to fix the leak and then bleed it what you have is air in the lines you will eventually lose all clutch if not fixed and running it improperly where wear the clutch itself out sooner
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
I'm certain that the camshaft pullies and probably the head have reference marks that must be aligned.
I can't tell you how to set them however and I think you know that guessing could be very expensive.
Check you local library for a Haynes (1st choice) or Chilton service manual or, and I think everyone should own one for their vehicle, buy one. We have three different vehicles and each has its own manual. They are not only valuable for DIY stuff but also for judging the fairness of an estimate on a repair you don't want to do at home. They cost between $20-$30 US and considering what mistakes cost, that's cheap.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
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