Just replaced the center support bearing and assembly and the transmission mount; now the car has a bad vibration when i go slowly from 0-40 mph; happens betwen 35-40 mph; before i replaced the center bearing the vibration was not as bad; lined up the driveshafts using the yellow marks on the shafts, but didnt mark them before we took them off to make the repairs; u joints are loose but not cracked
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Re: vibration on 1985 740gle
Volvo claims that if you don't put them back just as you took them off, this will happen. You probably should pull it again, replace the U-joints and then attempt to put the shaft back as it was originally.
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check for the drive joint phasing and angle setting of the center bearing
mostly with center bearing , the drive shaft has to be split and the flange removed for the bearing replacement
the flange can be put back on in any position and that will throw out the s joint phasing
Take it to a drive line specialist shop and ash them to check the phasing and angles to eliminate the vibration
The vibration could have been from a bad joint and the new joint was not properly installed which will also vibrate
If you are not familiar with the term phasing It is when the joints are in direct line with each other when placed on a flat surface and allows the differentiating speeds of the crosses as they pass through the 90 degrees to cancel each other out and stop the vibration
the drive line specialist will know and explain it better as he will have the drive shaft to show you on
vibrations in a vehicle come from a drive shaft problem The fault normally starts to show up at about 40mph and lasts up to 70mph. It is described as harmonic in that it "throbs" in waves (harmonic) The vibrations can be from tight "U" joints in the drive line or from misalignment of the drive shaft. To understand this the diff angle at the pinion has to be the same as the transmission angle at the start of the drive shaft. For example --if the transmission is down at the rear by 2 degrees from the horizontal line then the diff angle at the pinion has to be 2 degrees up on the horizontal line to maintain the angular phasing of the joints. Some vehicles run a center bearing in the drive shaft and this brings into extra calculations to maintain the angular phasing of the joints For "U" joints to run properly there needs to be at least 1/2 a degree angle so that the needle rollers in the joints roll around to reduce wear. That means that if there is a center bearing mount in the drive line the angles that the drive shaft operate at have to be calculated correctly to maintain the correct phasing of the joints. For several new vehicles to have the same problem I would say that it is an assembly problem where components have not been assembled correctly according to the drive line angular requirements ( wrong transmission mounts/cross members) wrong center bearing mount bracket or wrong diff angle for the wheel base length. To fully understand what I am trying to say go on line to hardie spicer drive line angles and calculations. To have your vehicle checked take it to a drive line accredited shop and have the angles checked. If you find what I am saying then have them prepare a report for the dealer workshop and have it fixed under warranty.
Get a friend to open the hood and look at the engine go up or down in the engine compartment when the brakes are firmly applied and switching between reverse and drive. Look for the motor mounts for behavior where tears exist in the rubber.
not CLIPS,, never heard of engine CLIPS,, you do have motor mounts @ transmission mounts that if bad,,they wiil create vibration in steering wheel if in park while in park or drive or reverse while car is still @ being shifted back @ forth from reverse or drive. here's a soltion for you! while hood is up,engine running,EMERGENCY BRAKE IS ON !! while somone is looking at motor while you shift car from drive to reverse back@ forth,, does motor JUMP and rock back and forth? IF so you have a bad motor or transmission MOUNT and I'VE never heard of CLIPS. hope this is some help..suggest you always get 2nd opinion
Have a look at the transmission mount. Also look at the universal joints in the drive shaft.
If the transmission mount is bad or mushy it will allow the metal part of the mount to touch the crossmember causing a vibration.
A dry u-joint will also cause a vibration. Even if the u-joint isn't worn out or has visible play. Being dry will cause this. Are the u-joints factory? Do they have grease fittings on them? Have they been replaced? How many miles on them?
If the u-joints don't have grease fittings then they are most likely factory u-joints. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Try checking the engine/transmission mounts, one of them may not have been reinstalled properly, or worn out, causing a vibration. If the car is able to move with the new clutch, and it seems to work, I wouldn't say the clutch was put in wrong. Also check the wires around the engine/transmission, you may have knocked something loose as well.
Hope this helps
These cars usually have a two piece drive shaft. There is a center bearing in the middle of the driveshaft for support and dampen vibration. It could also be the front rubber coupling where the transmission tailshaft and driveshaft meet. If both are fine try loosening the bolts on the rear transmission mount. Your mounts may be out of alignment allowing for unusual angles between the transmission and driveshaft. Good luck.