Question about 1984 Mercury Marquis

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1984 Mercury Grand Marquis starter continues to turn

I have replaced the starter relay 2 times. As the contacts stick when this happens. Thinking the starter was drawing too much amperage I checked it and it was 350 amps which is excessive. I replaced the starter and the relay again and checked the ground wire to the block seems ok. hooked up the battery and it did it again. I checked the ignition switch and it seems to be operating normally. Any ideas are gratly appreciated

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  • hneilson Feb 13, 2009

    Why yes I do have some nice toys it is a blue point inductive meter which goes to 600 amps. The solenoid is a Motorcraft and it is the correct one I was a Lincolm Mercury tech for 17 years but this one has me stumped. When it does it the solenoid is def stuck as you can test continuity across it and you have continuity. if you tap it it may release and show an open again. also when you cycle the key at times the interior lights will go out. Thanks for any help you can give.



    Harry

  • hneilson Feb 17, 2009

    Voltage Drop on Positive and Negative cables is good. Another tech helped me with this today and he seems to feel a low CCA in the battery will cause this. We tested the battery and it is showing a low CCA we checked it with a charger on the battery in the start setting and it worked fine. when we removed the charger the relay stuck again. Will let you know if a battery fixes it.

  • hneilson Feb 18, 2009

    I replaced the battery with a brand new Motorcraft one today and it has started great ever since. I never would have thought of that I used a midtronics battery tester and the old battery tested good so that kinda threw me. Thanks for your help MrMark.



    Harry

  • Michael Grey
    Michael Grey May 11, 2010

    I think during that year the ground cable ran to the frame and an engine block.Maybe check with a parts store as this might be it.

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    I bet that nails it. Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) being low would cause the relay to drop in and out, causing the arcing, and cause the weld of the contacts together.

    Interesting!


  • mike loshbough
    mike loshbough May 11, 2010

    take a voltage drop on the positive cables should not be more than 1.5 volts different

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Well the only thing that would cause the battery contacts to weld together inside the solenoid is bouncing the armature of the solenoid as it try's to close the heavy current carrying contacts.

    Hard arcing that produces enough heat to weld the contacts together only occurs more as the contacts try to drop out as to in.

    If the ignition circuit had some strange intermittent characteristics that would cause the bounce, then that could be the cause.

    Try this, with a new solenoid, jumper the ignition terminal from the battery, not using the key. See if it hangs then.

    Let me know what you find. I'm intrigged.


  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    First of all, what instrument do you have that allows you to measure 350 amps of DC current?(If you got something like that, can I play with some of your toys?).

    What exactly is the problem? If it's that the starter solenoid is hanging up, then are you purchasing the correct solenoid?
    Are the contacts really burning closed?

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Sounds like a faulty ignition switch. Its not releasing properly from the start mode. the amp draw could be caused by a bad starter main lead,look for bubbles in the insulation along the entire wire. this is an indication of corrosion inside the insulation which will greatly increase amp draw.Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 13, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: mercury grand marquis

it is on the fender near the battery and is also referred to as the starter solenoid (if you follow the large wire from the positive terminal of the battery at the other end will be your relay/solenoid)
hope this helps!

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • 564 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace starter +1993 Mercury Grand Marquis

disconnect battery,,jack car up,,put jack stand on frame,,take starter bolts out,(may not be easy),,take wires off starter,,hoped it helped,,

Posted on May 08, 2010

duane_wong
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: Looking for the location of

Fuel Filter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
Never smoke when working around or near gasoline! Make sure that there is no igniting source near your work area! Fuel Injected Engines The fuel filter is of a one-piece construction which cannot be cleaned. If it becomes clogged, it must be removed and replaced. When replacing the fuel filter use the filter specified for the engine being serviced. The inline filter is mounted on the same bracket as the fuel supply pump. It is on the frame rail under passenger side of the vehicle, in front of the fuel tank. To replace the filter: Fig. 4: Whenever you see a warning label, read it 86651210.jpg
CAUTION
Fuel supply lines on fuel injected vehicles will remain pressurized for some time after the engine is shut off. Fuel pressure must be relieved before servicing the fuel system.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure as follows:
    1. Remove the fuel tank cap to relieve any pressure in the fuel tank.
    2. Remove the cap from the Schrader valve located on the fuel injection supply manifold in the engine compartment.
    3. Attach fuel pressure gauge T80L–9974–A or equivalent, to the Schrader valve and drain the fuel through the drain tube into a suitable container.
    4. After the fuel system pressure is relieved, remove the fuel pressure gauge and install the cap on the Schrader valve.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  4. Disconnect the fittings from both ends of the fuel filter as follows:
    1. Inspect the visible portion of the fitting for dirt accumulation. If more than a light coating of dust is present, clean the fitting before disassembly.
    2. Some adhesion between the seals in the fitting and the filter will occur with time. To separate, twist the fitting on the filter, then push and pull the fitting until it moves freely on the filter.
    3. Remove the hairpin clip from the fitting by first bending and breaking the shipping tab. Next, spread the 2 clip legs by hand about 1⁄8 in. (3.1mm) each to disengage the body, then push the legs into the fitting. Lightly pull the triangular end of the clip and work it clear of the filter and fitting. NOTE: Do not use hand tools to complete this operation. Damage to the fittings may result.
    4. Grasp the fitting and pull in an axial direction to remove the fitting from the filter. Be careful on 90°elbow connectors, as excessive side loading could break the connector body.
    5. After disassembly, inspect the inside of the fitting for any internal parts such as O-rings and/or spacers that may have been dislodged from the fitting. Replace any damaged connector(s). Fig. 5: Carefully remove the hairpin clip 86651211.jpg
      Fig. 6: With a rag under the hose to catch any gasoline spillage, slowly separate the line from the filter 86651212.jpg

  5. If equipped, remove the filter retainer bolts and remove the filter and retainer from the mounting bracket. Remove the filter from the retainer. Note that the direction of the flow arrow on the fuel filter. Remove the rubber insulator rings, if installed. Inspect the rings for cracks or wear, and replace if needed. Fig. 7: Remove the hardware securing the filter to the housing 86651213.jpg
    Fig. 8: Lower the filter assembly, then separate the pieces 86651214.jpg
    To install:
  6. Install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the proper direction as before, then tighten the filter retaining clamp(s).
  7. If the original filter was equipped with rubber insulator rings, install the rubber insulator rings on the new filter. Install the filter into the retainer with the flow arrow pointing in the correct direction. Install the retainer on the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 27–44 inch lbs. (3–5 Nm).
  8. Connect the fittings at both ends of the fuel filter as follows:
    1. Install a new connector if damage was found. Insert a new clip into any 2 adjacent openings with the triangular portion pointing away from the fitting opening. Install the clip until the legs of the clip are locked on the outside of the body. Piloting with an index finger is necessary.
    2. Before installing the fitting on the filter, wipe the filter end with a clean cloth. Inspect the inside of the fitting to make sure it is free of dirt and/or obstructions.
    3. Apply a light coating of engine oil to the filter end. Align the fitting and filter axially and push the fitting onto the filter end. When the fitting is engaged, a definite click will be heard. Pull on the fitting to make sure it is fully engaged.
  9. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
  10. Lower the vehicle.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

duane_wong
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: 1984 mercury marquis air conditioner wont cool

I had a 1983 Mercury Grand Marquis that had a leaky compressor that I changed. It worked for several years after that.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

jimmybrown67
  • 835 Answers

SOURCE: What coolant do I need

JUST REGULAR ANTI-FREEZE / GREEN IN COLOR . YOU CAN USE THE ORANGE KIND BUT YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS FLUSHED - CLEANED, BECAUSE CAN'T MIX THE TWO TOGETHER. JUST USE THE GREEN.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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it is on the fender near the battery and is also referred to as the starter solenoid (if you follow the large wire from the positive terminal of the battery at the other end will be your relay/solenoid)
hope this helps!

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