Question about 1998 Mazda Protege

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My front breaks jam up

When I press down on the breaks, and then lift up the pressure, the breaks don't release and feel stiff, but eventually go up. It's a 1998 Mazda Protege. It's the front wheel breaks that stiffen up.

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This is the problem with hydraulic brakes line or the hydraulic brake system
is causing this problem in car ....


Good luck....

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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196 Tacoma wheel feels like it is locked up


Pull the hand brake. Block the rear wheels and transmission in neutral. Jack up the front wheels, first rotate the right wheel and if it slightly resists, its normal.Similarly check the left wheel also. If any one of the front wheels is hard to rotate, remove the Tyre and service the caliper assembly by greasing the pins with graphite grease. Also check the piston of the caliper assembly if it is not stiff. If so, free it up or replace the caliper kit with a genuine one on both sides. Always service both the front and rear brake system simultaneously.
If both the front wheels are jammed, the probable cause is the brake master cylinder assembly which need to be replaced with a new one.
If both of the front wheels are found to be normal, lower the front wheels and lift up the rear wheels. If any of the rear wheels are found to be partially of fully jammed, readjust the rear brake system or hand brake cable.

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id check your caliper to see if the piston is compressing all the way if not check your fluid it should be clean not brown or if you have been through large amounts of water if it has gotten into the brake system and check your bleeder valve to check if it has rotted or come lose or if you have a break in the lines or air, most likely your caliper is failing to compress.

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Not to be insulting, but have you released the safety latch?The lift is usually gravity drop, so it won't take much min regards to the safety latch to keep it from lowering. If is is a power down,and you feel pressure , The the latch ia the only variable involved. Good luck and be safe. Do not release anything you suspect while inspecting without attention to safety. hands and foot. Good luck Ned

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On my 98 firebird on cold mornings the clutch will not release. i have had a couple people tell me it was the slave cylinder. what do yall think it could be?


Well, there are a number of areas.
By release you can mean the clutch will not disengauge, or the clutch will not grip, after letting off of the pedal...

THE key is exactly how does the clutch FEEL? A slave would feel like more pedal travel, before any clutch depression happens. If you had a slave issue, you would normally be running through fluid.

Not Disengauge...So, yes, you can have slave or m/c issues, but does the pedal depression feel any different? There is a pilot bearing that supports the front end of the trans input shaft. This bearing is often brass and needs lubrication when apart.

If not clutch grab, while releasing the pedal, this can be the hydraulics or a pressure plate issue. If out of adjustment or worn, the pressure plate sometimes will bind on itself and not release, usually releasing suddenly, eventually....Tests would be to release hydraulic pressure, while car is safely on stands, and with qualified assistant.

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there are two types,1.squeeze the 1/2moon shaped piece of plastic at the bottom of the chrome stalk and push up(be careful its stiff) or 2.about 6"down the back of the seat top in line with the chrome stalk,press in a hidden button(you can feel it) and lift,again be careful,you may have to wiggle,side to side,to get them out,(if they are very stiff get someone in the back seat to lift/wiggle.

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How do I remove the front seat headrest on a '94 Volvo 940?


two answers,depending on seat.
1.push in 1/2 moon shape piece at bottom of post and lift,it is stiff...
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better if someone sits in back and tries to move headrest at first cos you will only have one hand free
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Boys! If my 12 year old can't break it, it must be indestructable! I can't see a safe way to remove the plastic casing without breaking it or damaging the integrity of the buckel. I suggest that you use a shim to push the foam furter down into the buckle housing away from the internal latch. I just tried this on my toyota and used a 0.50mm feeler gauge (auto store) and was able to work around the front, back and sides of the release button down into the housing. It was stiff enough that I believe that anything in its way could be dislodged. I didn't want to replicate the foam jam, but I believe that with this shim I could dislodge the area around the latch hole enough to push the button and release. Then you can use tweezers and the shim to remove the foam. Good luck!

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2 Answers

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