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Welcome to my world. There is always a feeling of tension when pulling a bonnet release and finding it stiff and hard to pull. There is a danger it will break and cause untold troubles. This is why I remove and lubricate the cable whenever I encounter such a thing.
Sometimes the handle will break off and leave enough cable to grip with visegrips or similar. An assistant should be pressing down and releasing the bonnet while tension is applied to the cable.
If the cable broke further along and there is no access, you have to do whatever needs to be done to open the bonnet to gain access. Sometimes it is possible to remove enough components from under the engine compartment to provide access - pulleys, belts, cowlings, fan, radiator and so forth.
The other way in would be from the front removing grille, bumper and whatever panelwork that must be removed.
Neglecting to oil a bonnet cable can result in a lot of inconvenience, skinned knuckles and frayed patience and sometimes expense...
Pull the hand brake. Block the rear wheels and transmission in neutral. Jack up the front wheels, first rotate the right wheel and if it slightly resists, its normal.Similarly check the left wheel also. If any one of the front wheels is hard to rotate, remove the Tyre and service the caliper assembly by greasing the pins with graphite grease. Also check the piston of the caliper assembly if it is not stiff. If so, free it up or replace the caliper kit with a genuine one on both sides. Always service both the front and rear brake system simultaneously.
If both the front wheels are jammed, the probable cause is the brake master cylinder assembly which need to be replaced with a new one.
If both of the front wheels are found to be normal, lower the front wheels and lift up the rear wheels. If any of the rear wheels are found to be partially of fully jammed, readjust the rear brake system or hand brake cable.
if you have lifted the front suspension by 3 inches then that is 3 inches less travel for the shocky piston to move when the suspension goes down. You have probably damaged the piston and shaft of the shocky. Replace with longer travel shockys.
Not to be insulting, but have you released the safety latch?The lift is usually gravity drop, so it won't take much min regards to the safety latch to keep it from lowering. If is is a power down,and you feel pressure , The the latch ia the only variable involved. Good luck and be safe. Do not release anything you suspect while inspecting without attention to safety. hands and foot. Good luck Ned
Well, there are a number of areas.
By release you can mean the clutch will not disengauge, or the clutch will not grip, after letting off of the pedal...
THE key is exactly how does the clutch FEEL? A slave would feel like more pedal travel, before any clutch depression happens. If you had a slave issue, you would normally be running through fluid.
Not Disengauge...So, yes, you can have slave or m/c issues, but does the pedal depression feel any different? There is a pilot bearing that supports the front end of the trans input shaft. This bearing is often brass and needs lubrication when apart.
If not clutch grab, while releasing the pedal, this can be the hydraulics or a pressure plate issue. If out of adjustment or worn, the pressure plate sometimes will bind on itself and not release, usually releasing suddenly, eventually....Tests would be to release hydraulic pressure, while car is safely on stands, and with qualified assistant.
there are two types,1.squeeze the 1/2moon shaped piece of plastic at the bottom of the chrome stalk and push up(be careful its stiff) or 2.about 6"down the back of the seat top in line with the chrome stalk,press in a hidden button(you can feel it) and lift,again be careful,you may have to wiggle,side to side,to get them out,(if they are very stiff get someone in the back seat to lift/wiggle.
two answers,depending on seat.
1.push in 1/2 moon shape piece at bottom of post and lift,it is stiff...
2.about 6 inches down from the post on the back of the seat you will feel a small 1" pad,push it in hard and lift headrest,it will be stiff.
better if someone sits in back and tries to move headrest at first cos you will only have one hand free
and from experience a face full of headrest can hurt.
Boys! If my 12 year old can't break it, it must be indestructable! I can't see a safe way to remove the plastic casing without breaking it or damaging the integrity of the buckel.
I suggest that you use a shim to push the foam furter down into the buckle housing away from the internal latch. I just tried this on my toyota and used a 0.50mm feeler gauge (auto store) and was able to work around the front, back and sides of the release button down into the housing. It was stiff enough that I believe that anything in its way could be dislodged. I didn't want to replicate the foam jam, but I believe that with this shim I could dislodge the area around the latch hole enough to push the button and release. Then you can use tweezers and the shim to remove the foam.
A few things contribute to the stiff ride:
1. Tires and tire pressure... if you're running 50psi or above...that will contribute.If you aren't carrying loads, keep the tire pressure at the bottom of the recommended range.
2. aftermarket additions to the suspension- if you can contact the previous owner, you may want to ask.
ei: helper springs, lift kits, special shocks
3. Empty truck bed will emphasize the bumps. Put a little ballast in the bed of your truck. I've kept sand bags or tool boxes in mine to soften the blows...
When you open the breaking system you allow air to enter the break lines and that will cause squishy or weak breaks. You have too "bleed" the air out of the lines now. The way to do this is to have someone help you with this process. They will need to pump the break pedal until the break pedal is stiff and hold pressure on the pedal while you open the valve on the caliper or wheel cylinder(disc or drum) until you have a steady stream of fluid with no air. To ensure you get all the air out you need to start from the passenger rear tire,then driver rear, pass. front, driver front. Make sure you slip one end of a hose over the bleeder valve and the other end in a container so that you don't allow the break fluid to contaminate the new brakes,