Hey Elfs_dj Check your Ground Wires before doing anything else...
Look straight at the engine on the right side below the right silver motormount on the block is a Stud with a wire and a nut this nut comes loose and that is your battery ground...
this will certainly stop your car from starting Believe me I had same issue I replaced 5 year old Battery went through 2 new starters and took off every cable looking for corrosion cleaned and reassembled ended up that nut was halfway off
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Please provide with more detail. Does it make a click sound when turning the ignition? Does it crank?
Have you tried to jump the battery with jumping cable or tried it on a know good batteries?
- If the car does make a cranking noised then the starter is good but weak battery.
- If there is no noise or clicking, then dead battery.
- If you can hear the clicking when turning the key to start, then check for battery GROUND.
- If battery were tested and it read 12.5 - 14.0 DCV. Then your starter are bad.
There also other thing to check like security alarm system with ignition switch kill... But most common problems with fail to start are mention above.
Measure voltage at battery and voltage at starter .Then try to jump starter by connecting the small terminal and the battery cable at starter.
or Security system is on. and small wire to ignition are cut and there is no starter and no injection pulse.
hope it help
If it comes to having to buy a starter, I'd recommend a new starter over a used one.
As for the *click* then nothing that's been happening... if the battery is bad, you would hear a *tick-tick-tick-tick-tick* sound. That's the starter solenoid magnetizing and hitting the starter connection. If you hear just one single *click*, I'm guessing you either have a bad starter or a bad connection.
what transmission,? this can be 3 things, if it wont jump and batter is good. bad connections at battery or starter. 1: bad starter. 2: bad (A/T shift switch) or bad M/T clutch switch. 3 bad ignition switch. 4: bad wire or connections end to and start system.
hot wire the starter solenoid, if car starts (cranks) then its 2 o 3.
wont crank or wont start.?? no car starts , if it cant crank. (unless push starter (M/T magic) that is not a trans sensor its the PRN switch. ill answer for, wont CRANK ! it wont crank even with a good battery (charged) or jump started. 1: bad start 2: bad wires to same. so hot wire the starter small wire, the key start line is tiny. cranks. , starter good, no crank starter bad or cables bad. if it cranks hot wired, then the key line is dead. easy, huh?
Park/neutral switch is open. Poor ground connection to starter.
You can test the park/neutral switch by either jumping the solenoid (connect the hot terminal to the start terminal to see if the starter cranks--if it does, the ground is good) or by interrogating the starter relay socket. To interrogate the relay socket, use a 12 volt test light connection the clip to battery positive. Probe the socket terminals with the test light. If only one terminal lights the light, your park/neutral switch is bad or the start wire to the solenoid is bad.
Maybe the starter or starter solenoid is bad. First, make sure connections at battery and starter are clean and tight. Old school method: turn headlights on, and (if good and bright) observe them while someone turns key to crank. If they dim noticeably and starter makes no sound, likely the starter has failed. If you observe no difference in headlight strength, then likely the starting circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is not working. You could take the wire off starter solenoid and see if it has power there while key is in crank position. If you do have power there, starter needs to be tested, or the solenoid is bad. If no power to the solenoid when cranking, then the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid will need diagnosing. Your neutral safety switch, and possibly a starter relay is in that circuit before it reaches the solenoid. Good luck.
Hi, I had the same problem with my girlfriend's 97' sunfire, it wouldn't start so I jumped the starter terminals which I think screwed it up even more (causing the theftlock light to come on). It turns out this is a common problem that can be solved by hooking up a GM Tech2 scanner, going under "body" codes, and following the instructions for bypassing the PASS LOCK SOLENOID. Hope you find this helpful, Byron