Headlight actuators continue to run after reaching full open or full closed positions. (about 10 to 15 rotations) actuators also run after turning parking lights off. does the switch control the travel of the motors?
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Sunroof Description and Operation (One Connector System)
This diagnostic procedure is to be used for the 1 connector Sunroof System that combines the sunroof control module with the sunroof motor/actuator.
The Sunroof System consists of the following components:
• BATT MAIN 2 Fuse 50 A
• Body control module (BCM)
• RAP relay
• S/Roof Fuse 20 A
• Sunroof module (includes sunroof motor/actuator)
• Sunroof switch
The Sunroof System is controlled by the sunroof switch and the sunroof motor/actuator assembly.
When the ignition is turned to RUN or ACCESSORY, or when the retained accessory power (RAP) system is active, the body control module (BCM) applies a ground to the RAP relay in the instrument panel (I/P) fuse block. This activates the RAP relay and allows battery positive voltage to be applied through the SUNROOF Fuse to the sunroof module. Ground for the sunroof module is supplied from G302.
The sunroof can be placed in 3 preset positions:
When the sunroof switch is placed in the OPEN position, a ground is applied from the sunroof switch low reference circuit , through the sunroof switch and to the sunroof switch open signal circuit. The sunroof motor/actuator then applies voltage to the sunroof motor open control circuit and applies a ground to the sunroof motor close circuit. The sunroof motor then opens the sunroof to the full open position.
When the sunroof switch is placed in the VENT position, a ground is applied from the sunroof switch low reference circuit , through the sunroof switch and to the sunroof switch open signal circuit. The sunroof module then applies voltage to the sunroof motor open control circuit and applies a ground to the sunroof motor close circuit. The sunroof motor then opens the sunroof to the VENT position.
When the sunroof switch is placed and held in the CLOSED position, a ground is applied from the sunroof switch low reference circuit , through the sunroof switch and to the sunroof switch close signal circuit. The sunroof module then applies voltage to the sunroof motor close control circuit and applies a ground to the sunroof motor open circuit. The sunroof motor then closes the sunroof.
The sunroof can be placed in any preferred open position when:
• The sunroof is in the fully opened position by pressing and holding the sunroof switch in the CLOSE position until the panel has reached the desired position then release the CLOSE switch in order to stop the sunroof
• The sunroof is opening, it can be stopped by momentarily pressing either side of the switch.
The sunroof control module, sun roof actuator, and the sunroof motor are integral parts of the sunroof module assembly and are not service separately.
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop or buick dealer .
This may be as simple as relearning the window stop positions. Perform the following procedure to relearn the windows;
1) Sit in the drivers seat and ensure both doors are fully closed.
2) Turn the key to the ON position but do not start the vehicle.
3) Pull up on the drivers window switch until the window reaches the full up position, then CONTINUE HOLDING THE SWITCH UP for 2-5 seconds, then release the switch.
4) Push down on the drivers window switch until the window fully opens, then CONTINUE HOLDING THE SWITCH DOWN for 2-5 seconds, then release the switch.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 for the passenger window.
6) Close both windows and check the operation of the smart glass.
on all cars made
(you can read the FSM at any time and see exact way and tests)
1: damper stuck or its actuator bad. ( 3 kinds uses on all cars)
2 ;controls to damper actuator bad.
3: wires between both faulty.
3 types are motor, vacuum servo and cable.
you have 2 of the 3.
the blend is a motor actuator
the recric is vacuum servo
the motor types are very hard to test, read the FSM.
ill post the calibration
Use this procedure to ensure that the A/C-heater control is correctly calibrated to the blend door actuator. If the calibration is not correct, the heating-A/C system may experience a condition where full heating or cooling capabilities cannot be obtained.
Manual calibration of the A/C-heater control should be performed if the blend door actuator is not functioning properly, or if the temperature of the conditioned air is too warm with the temperature control in the full cold position or too cool with the temperature control in the full hot position.
This calibration procedure can only be started within the first ten seconds after the ignition switch has been turned from the OFF position to the ON position. Make sure that the battery is fully charged prior to beginning the calibration procedure.
The length of the pause made at each end of the temperature control rotation (sweep) is important. 5 seconds) or too long (greater than 1.5 seconds).
With the ignition switch in the OFF position, move the temperature control to its middle (12 o'clock) position.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the engine).
Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition switch from the OFF to the ON position, perform the following rotations (sweeps) of the temperature control.
From the 12 o'clock position, rotate the temperature control counter-clockwise to the full cold position. Pause one second.
Rotate the control clockwise to the full hot position. Pause one second.
Rotate the control counter-clockwise to the full cold position. Pause one second.
Rotate the control clockwise to the full hot position. Pause one second.
Rotate the control counter-clockwise to the full cold position.
There are two motors, and three relays in the system. Here's how it works:
The headlight door motors reverse direction by reversing polarity. However, the automatic shut off (high torque switch, or HTS) makes that a rather more complex task than at first it might seem.
That's because when a motor reaches its limit, one of the 'wires' is disconnected from the motor by the HTS. Reversing the polarity at this point wouldn't do anything since the circuit is broken by the HTS.
Consequently, each motor has three wires for control. The combination of the blue wire, gray wire, and green wire provide polarity reversal to the motor (to make it able to run in both directions) and to run each motor from its resting state, after it has shut off.
There are of course two motors. They operate and are controlled identically.
Here's the matrix:
RIGHT HAND MOTOR
Blu Grn Gry up: (+) (-) dn: (+) (-)
That is, in order to run the motor up, the system connects the green wire to the hot side and the gray wire to ground. In order to run the motor down, the system connects the blue wire to the hot side, and the green wire to ground.
The left hand motor operates the same, except for its blue wire is actually blue with white stripes.
There is an actuator relay for each light mounted on the body of the light housing. There is also an isolator relay, mounted on the fender wall on the driver's side. When operating properly, the two actuator relays act identically.
The actuator relays get their instructions from the isolation relay. When the motors need to run down, the isolation relay is not energized, the blue (and blue/white) wires make with the hot side through the closed contacts of the isolation relay (which is not energized), and the ground is furnished to the motor through the closed contacts of the actuator relay until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, neither the motors nor the relays draw any current in the full down position.
When it's time to go up, the actuator relays are energized when the pink wires coming from the isolation relay are connected to the hot side through the newly closed contacts of the isolation relay, the isolation relay is energized because the yellow wire coming from the head light switch is now hot.
When the actuator relays are energized, they furnish 12v from the always hot red wires, through their newly closed contacts, to the green wire. The motor is grounded through the newly closed contacts of the actuator relays. The motors will run up until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, with the light doors in the full up position, all relays are energized and draw current, but the motors do not.
There are very counterintuitive things about this circuitry: When the motors are running UP, both the hot side and the ground are furnished by and through the actuator relay. However, when the motors are running DOWN, only the ground is furnished by the actuator relay because the blue and blue/white wires do not run to or through the actuator relay.
Similarly counterintuitive, when the motors are running down, the hot side is supplied by and through the isolation relay, but when they are running up, the hot side is supplied not by and through the isolation relay, but through the always hot fusible link.
That's how the headlamp door relays and motors work. The relays are not cheap but not terribly expensive, either: $17 ea for the actuator relays and $25 for the isolation relay. Proper trouble shooting can save a buck or two.
It is fairly easy to swap the actuator relays from side to side. If the symptoms change with them, then its probably the relays.
Although the actuator relays look similar to the isolation relay, they are very different, they cannot be swapped. Please note that the system is very interdependent, and it's easy to see why Chevrolet changed to electronic (as opposed to electro-mechanical) controls.
Hope this helps.
if you have vacuum operated headlight covers, these will take pressure from the system to stay open and light the road..because the actuators are spring loaded sothe louvers close without any pressure..this vacuum also operates the heater controls and vents,, check the light covers for broken or loose hoses and also check the vacuum reservoir and its hoses too..prossess of elimination kido..good luck..unless theres a cut hose behind the dash somewhere..withthe engine running listen for a hissing sound..it will tell you if there is a leak in a hose..
Head lights have a reed switch built into the unit. if a gear is stripped / missing a tooth the headlights will continue to run. You can replace the gears for around $50.00 for a set. I would go with the , metal gears for the few dollars more, especially in cold climates where there is snow.
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits ?
When the headlamp switch is turned to the HEAD position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 103. The LH head lamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 576 and ground is applied to CKT 577. The RH headlamp door opens when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 578 and ground is applied to CKT 579. When the headlamp switch is moved to the OFF position, battery voltage is applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module through CKT 306. The LH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the LH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 577 and ground is applied to CKT 576. The RH headlamp door closes when battery voltage is applied to the RH headlamp opening door assembly through CKT 579 and ground is applied to CKT 578. Battery voltage is constantly applied to the headlamp opening door actuator control module from the HDLP MOT L MiniFuse® #4 (CKT 2940) and from the HDLP MOT R, MiniFuse #3 (CKT 3040). The headlamp opening door actuator control module is grounded by CKT 150 through Splice Pack #100 to G102.
Headlamp Doors Do Not Close
Install a scan tool and go to the BCM input display.
Monitor the headlamp off switch status.
Turn the headlamps on and off.
Does the scan tool indicate the headlamp off switch inactive and active?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 6
Disconnect the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1.
Connect a DMM from connector C1 terminal D to ground.
Measure resistance to ground of circuit 150.
Is resistance within the specified values?
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 9
Connect a test light from the headlamp opening door actuator control module connector C1 terminal C to ground.
Turn the headlamp switch off.
Does the test light illuminate?