Re: How do you change the spark plugs on a 02 S-60 2.4T ?
I just did this. It took me longer than I thought. About 75 minutes. It took me 5 minutes to determine where the plugs were.
You need a socket drive for the spark plug, 3/8 drive; and socket (forgot the mm size) Also need a torque bit for an electric screwdriver and for the tight spots on the back toward th efirewall I used a little small screwdriver drive that is more of a rackets drive (like a 3/8" socket drive), but much smaller that let me get to those torque screws under the horizontal pipe.
So basically you need to remove the torque screws on the shrouding at the top of the engine which covers the dual cams. Then on the passenger side of that shrouding, there is a second shrouding that is like a half of a wheel covering the timing belt of the 2 cam shafts. With those 2 shroud off, you can see the 5 plugs with ignition electronics at the top of each.
Use a 10 mm socket to remove the bolt holding down the ignition electronic component. It looks like an epoxy potted rectangular box maybe 2.5"x1.5"x3/4". Undo the connector. Then just pull steadily upward on the rectangular box with a lot of force. The rubber spark plug jacket comes off with a pop, exposing the plug below about 3-4" inches in an aluminum cavity. replace the plug. I didn't use a torque wrench, put tried to apply about the same force as it took to remove. I used a Bosh plug with two electrodes that didn't require gapping. I removed a standard volve plug with 3 electrodes. Now that I know, I would probable go with a plug that has 3 electrodes, just to be more try to the original. At the time I didn't know and bought the 2 electrode Bosch.
Just put the rubber sleeve with the rectangular ignition box back on and torque down the 10mm bolt. Replace the shroud. I also added a little high-temp grease on the plugs thread to make removal easier.
After I did a3 plugs, I realized that I could operate more as an assembly line, and remove all 10mm bolts at the same time, and all rubber/ignition boots, then all plugs, etc.
Next time it should take 30 minutes. I'll know exactly what tools I need and have them all there.
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I am guessing this is a 6 cylinder. You will need a spark plug removal socket. Usually 5/8 with a rubber fitting in the top of it to grab onto the spark plug. Locate your distribution center where the six wires feed out to the spark plugs. If you follow one of them you will get to the end where the spark plug is. Remove the rubber boot and that will expose the spark plug head. Get a ratchet, put on the socket and remove the plug. That is the easy explanation. Getting to the plugs may be difficult with what is in the way. You may need to remove manifolds or other things in the way first. From there you may need a couple of different socket extensions or knuckles to get into them. Let me know if you have any other questions.
You have to remove the intake plenum to access the spark plugs. That's the piece that sticks up and completely covers the back side when looking from the front. If you have fairly average car repair skills, it isn't all that hard but does take a lot longer than a normal spark plug change-out. If you remove the plenum and do this job yourself, you MUST replace the intake plenum gasket or you will end up with a bad vacuum leak. I strongly recommend you refer to a maintenance manual if you attempt this procedure. There is a lot of stuff attached to the plenum that has to be removed.
Can be a real mess. Just how much water? Puddle or sunk in a lake. If it was lots of water, I would drain the fluids, (oil, trans, etc), refill. Pull the spark plugs out and tunr the motor using the starter. Put a towel over the holes to minimize spraying stuff everywhere. Spray some WD40 into the spark plug holes and replace spark plugs, Hopefully things will be okay after that. May have bent a connecting rod, damaged electrical components, etc. Good luck
No the motor does not need to be move at all. Just follow the plug wire to each plug which is located on top of the motor. Pull wire off and slide a spark plug socket with extension down into the head and unbolt. The only one that might give you trouble would be plug 4 on passengers side but thats on a Expedition and a F150 is easier to work on.
ok that is not the easy the ones in the front those are the easy ones but the ones in the back thse are dificul ones so in order to change those spark plug you need to race the car and try to change them from underneath this is one way the other way is to remove the intake sistem and change them from the top
The head on the back side of the engine is the same as the front side. The plug placement is the same. It helps to remove the coils to gain access to the rear plugs. Other than that an assortment of extensions, a flex handle ratchet, a mirror and a lot of patience. I think the dealer puts the car on a lift and reaches them from below. I use Auto-lite platinum plugs so I don't have do it so often on my 3.1L GM. The first time I changed plugs I wished I had hired the back three done.
the only way to remove the wires is to take the intake off.Its not that hard mine has 250,000 on it and it comes apart fine. But you need some special sockets and then it would even out if you paid somebody capable to do it for you. the plugs can be changed I use a swivel socket and a extension. The distributor should be fine I assume you meant the cap and rotor, that is easy but the clips that hold it down can be tricky to but back on. If it looks too difficult or scares you dont do it.
My name is Chris. I have 20 years acura experience.
If you have some technical experience changing spark plugs before you can it on these.
remove spark plug coil packs on top of valve covers. 8mm socket and ratchet.
twist coil packs and remove from cover/plug. use 6 inch 3/8 extention and 5/8 plug socket and ratchet...remove plugs from tube in valve cover. Use NGK plugs!!!!! or Nipondenso plugs only!!!! Nothing else.... trust me on this one.
However, I think your problem is more than just plugs. you need to explain what sound your are experiencing... please be detailed. when does it happen and how? does it have a check engine light?
does it run rough when you coast only?
This is a outstanding question!!! The plugs or wires are not visible from the top or sides of the moter. You just can't see em'!!! You have to remove the large black plastic air intake. Then remove the intake manafold(not too hard to do) to access the spark plugs and wires.
Also: After removing all the black plastic air intake stuff, you'll have to remove the coil pack (long black plastic thing that says "Ecotek" on top). The coil pack is removed by disconnecting the wire connector on the driver's side end and then removing four bolts. To lift off the coil pack, you'll have to pull upwards firmly and evenly from both sides, because the spark plug boots or wires are holding onto the spark plugs as well as the coil. With the coil pack removed, look down into the silver channels - there's the plugs. To remove, you'll need a plug socket head and a socket wrench with long extension. To replace the plugs, I use an extra or old spark plug boot to hold the plug and get it started turning into the engine threads. Good Luck!