Did it work before? Are you aware that the pump in the trunk has a off and on switch, that could have been moved? Plus there are hydraulic arms that raise the top on each side of the car (Cylinder looking things those could be broken also? No wiring diagram sorry.
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Unplug the electrical connector from your pop-up headlight motor(but not the headlight bulb), remove the plastic cover from the top of that same motor and manually turn the little gear at the top of that motor until the headlight moves up into the full upright position. It will remain there as long as the electrical connector stays unplugged.
First of all, what you have is a California Conversion. Nissan had the coup imported then sent to be converted. The company that converted these limited 240's did a wonderful job, they not only installed the top, but strengthened the body to compensate for the roof structure that was eliminated. The parts availablity is sparse, but out there. You may find the parts you need thru Coparts.com or another insurance salvage company by purchasing the entire wreck. Another possible avenue might be to have the links machined...relatively simple. These are inexpensive "do it yourself" solutions. You could take your car to Texas Auto Trim (713-661-5777) or Convert-Able systems (972-291-9769). In addition to replacing the fabric, they could repair the broken pieces.
It's a pretty simple swap actually you just need to wire the speed sensor, speed wire if its digital display and back-up switch. The Auto has more wires than the manual. I suggest that you buy the manual so that you can find these wires. But it's not hard.
My Nissan Primera EGT (1993 Reg'd) has an immobiliser, which was causing a similar problem. Turned on ignition and nothing. The immobilizer was faulty to the starter motor, so we disconnected it from the starter and left the immobilizer on the fuel line. Starts now, no problem and the immobilizer would still stop the potential thieves as they'd have no idea without the immobilizer key why the engine will no more than start then stutter to a big full stop!!. The 240SX is probably a more modern Nissan but I bet there's an immobilizer built into it somewhere. You may need to take it to a Nissan expert or Dealer to check out. It's almost definitely something weird like an immobilizer or maybe the starter motor's blown it, but then you'd have heard the graunching noises that starter motors make when they're about to clap out, they don't usually just go. There may also be some disconnection of wires to the alternator, which amplifies the spark to the engine, but the starter motor would still turn, your engine just wouldn't fire up with the too weak spark. So if nothing moves, it's most likely an immobilizer or possibly (but unlikely) a sudden death starter motor.
Depending on the system, bleeding hydraulic lines can be a real pain.
I'm not a mechanic but have 'been there, done that' for decades and have found (not discovered, since I'm sure they were around before) methods that have worked well for me.
Try this; purchase a clear, flexible line with a diameter that slips firmly over the bleeder fitting and long enough to reach from master reservoir to slave fitting with enough length to loop a generous stretch over your windshield.
Use wire or a weight to keep the free (reservoir) end submerged in the fluid.
Open the slave bleeder a little (half-turn or so).
You currently have clean fluid in your system so there shouldn't be any contaminents in the line.
You MUST keep the reservoir topped up so no additional air can work into the system.
I have used this for years to observe the bubbles passing through the loop and have simply, patiently, pumped until the air is exhausted and nothing but fluid is visible in the clear tubing.
Once you see no air of substance anymore, close (tighten) the slave cylinder bleeder.
Don't over tighten, they can snap off.
You will waste some fluid but it isn't significant and well worth getting the job done.
Obviously, the same method can be applied to the brake system too if you buy enough tubing.