Question about 1999 Daewoo Nubira

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Ignition coil problem

The car wont start, when i put the ignition switch it makes a funny noise on the ignition relay when i move the wire plug on the ignition coil the noise goes off and the car start for a while and then shut off again

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THE PROBLEM IS RESOLVE, IT WAS THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE FIREWALL TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, ITS A BLACK 10 GAUGE BLACK WIRE FOR GROUND, IT WAS LOOSE.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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94 s10 fuel pump relay clicking no start


The clicking noise at the relay indicates that the relay is bad, or that the wires to the relay and/or connector is bad.

A relay is an electronically activated switch. Inside is a coil. When 12v+ is applied to one end of the coil, and a ground is applied to the other end, the coil gets charged, creating a magnetic field. This magnetic field literally moves a metal lever from position A to position B. One end of the lever is attached to constant battery power. When coil not energized, the lever rests in postion A (which in the case of the fuel pump relay is feeding the battery power to an unused terminal). When the coil is activated, the lever moves to position B (which in this case is a terminal connected to your fuel pump wire). Thus, when the relay is activated, 12v+ is being directed from the battery to the fuel pump.

This fast clicking indicates that the relay coil is not getting a constant voltage or ground supplied to it, thus the lever is moving back and forth between position A and position B, either there is a wiring issue, a connector issue, or an internal issue with the relay.
The relay has 4 wires, black, grey, orange, green with white stripe.
black = ground
orange = battery = 12v+ always
grey = wire out to fuel pump (on some cars this wire is tan with white stripe)
green/white = signal wire from ECM

When key is turned ON, the ECM sends 12v+ out on the green/white wire to the relay for about 2 seconds - this activates the relay coil for 2 seconds, thus running the pump for 2 seconds (priming). When the vehicle is started, the ECM sees a constant ignition signal from the ignition module, and sends a constant 12v+ out on the green/white wire, thus activating the relay coil constantly, and thus running the pump constantly.
When car shut off, no more constant ignition signal, thus ECM stops sending the 12v+ out on the green/white wire.
So, you can kind of test your connector ...
1) remove connector from relay
2) jumper a wire from the slot for the orange wire to the slot for the grey wire - fuel pump should run - wiggle wires to verify at connector
3) probe black wire slot with ohm meter - make sure black wire has constant ground - wiggle wires at connector
test relay ...
1) remove relay from connector
2) rig a ground wire to the tab that had the black wire when in connector
3) apply 12v+ to the tab that had the green/white wire - relay should click once and do this every time you apply the 12v+

That should help you track it down to either a connector problem, a wiring problem, or a relay problem.

Nov 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

88 ranger 2.3l...replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs, plug wires, ignition module, coil pack. Wont start. ECU was replaced last yr. Initial spark when the key first bumps...then nothing. Wont start.


There is a fuel cutoff switch if the truck was in any type of collision. They also have relays that control all of the things you replaced. Start there and do a visual inspection of relays.

Nov 09, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car wont start


replace fuel filter.listen for fuel pump operation with ignition switch on position for 3 seconds should hear fuel pump running should have humming or churling noise if so fuel pump working if hear no noise fuel pump faulty or could have blowed fuel pump fuse or bad relay.if fuel system okay problem could be ignition timing off due to worn broken timing belt.could have faulty ignition module.bad crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor best to have vechicle code scan first before buying alot of new parts.could have bad ECM. many things will cause no start problems i.dont know model type vechicle.could have bad spark plugs wires. distributor cap and rotor could be bad.ignition coil could be bad.

Mar 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

94 Acura Integra wont Start


jump timing loosen distributor and plus or minus turn and retighten

Mar 09, 2013 | 1994 Acura Integra

1 Answer

New fuel pump and still wont start


1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Relay - Fuel Pumpat Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

May 22, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

My car wont start


a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

May 20, 2010 | 1994 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

Wont start even if i push her,toyota tercel has no spark


So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Apr 29, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Tercel

1 Answer

Wont start


check the ignition switch. pull covering off of the column and check switches wires,
reds - should have +12 battery power
white - Ignition output
pink - ignition output
yellow - starter output

these wires are needed to start car.

from the switch the starter wire goes to and neutral position switch. located on transmission. yellow is starter in purple is starter output. if all that is good change the relay moun about the radiator. good luck

Sep 24, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

1996 S-10 cranks but no fire


did you check to see if fuel pump is pumping. fuel filter isnt clogged is it? but you're sure there is no spark. because if there is spark it could be air flow problems.
and you changed the ignition switch so that's not it, how about the starter. is there any noise coming from the starter when you turn key? if it isn't lined up right.
there has to be spark if you did what you said take off a wire at night and try it . electricity to start goes, ign switch battery starter(is there a relay on s10s cant remember), the alternator is here also.to coil/distributor to wires to plugs to gasoline

also it could be the wires coming from the battery , check them for corrosion. if they are really corroded could be problem. and make sure your ground is good contact. ive seen corrosion inside wires causing no spark.
just a few ideas to check.

Feb 25, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

My 1987 oldsmobile calais has started making a funny noise and no wanting to run right. Missing out and spitting and spudering. I have changed spark plugs and put on new air filter, it is still doing it...


Have you tried the ignition module, coil pack, or engine roration sensor. All three are in the rear of the engine and low. Pretty difficult to get to so plan on some time to get them out. just follow the ignition wires to the coil and do the rest by feel. Have Fun

Feb 01, 2009 | 1987 Oldsmobile Calais

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