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there ar 4 spring clips attached to the switch. the best way is to use a bone tool to pry it out without doing and damage to the surrounding area. what also helps ease the removal is tekinf the side [panel cover off the dash board on the left side and putting your hand through there to help squeeze the clips on the switch.
Replace the elctronic flasher relay, it runs both turn and emergency flashers in one relay.The flasher/turn signal is screwed into the metal support above the fuse panel, you must take the bottom of the dash off and remove the plastic cover. this is for a sable that has light out detection. Look under your dash for a blue box screwed into the right side of the dash panel. This of course is done, with you laying on your back, and your feet in the back seat. It's a blue box, about the size of half a twinkie (cream filled, golden sponge cake). Remove the plug that holds it in, unscrew the screw that holds it to the frame, and go to Autozone or other parts store, to get a new relay. You will have to reuse the metal piece that holds the relay to the dash panel, so be sure and save that before you throw the old part away. Installation is the reverse. Read more
The dash is held on by several screws around the edges and underneath with a couple bolts in the primary reinfocements.
You need to disconnect the battery, drop the collumn (usually 4 nuts or bolts hold it up.) and remove escutcheon around the radio and heater controls as the radio antenna connection and the control cables and primary vacuum line may limit the amount of movement you can make with the dash. having those off you can remove their mounting screws if needed with ease. The escutcheouns are held on with tension clips. Use care around any air bag.
As the screws come out you can pull on dash to see where it is still attached. You should have 2 screws in each main defroster vent location. Note which screws had grounding wires under them.
The first thing I would do is pull the stereo out of the dash and unplug it . If the buzzing stops the stereo is bad get a new stereo. Its not hard to remove the stereo. Right above the cup holder there is a small cover you need a very small screwdriver to remove it . Under that is a few screws take those out then grab the plastic cover that runs around the stereo and pull towards the back window it simply pops off (No screws) After you remove that cover you will see 4 phillips head screws that hold the stereo in remove them. Last slide out the stereo there will be 1 plug with alot of wires that is the power and speakers . Unplug it . The other round plug is the FM antenna
Remove the shroud below glove box, 2 screws and a snap-pop fitting. Be careful of the courtesy light. Remove the blower moter and disconnect the purple/black power connector to it - - you'll need this extra room to work with. 2 more screws, same size, 6.5mm on mine, 7or 8mm on some others, that holds the blower motor resistor in place. This replacement part is less than 40 bones at most parts store. Unplug, replace, re-install, test and you're on your way with about 2 hours of slow paced effort in your own driveway. Typical cost at a garage - up to $400, what a sham.
You need to buy a repair manual first. You must have the feon removed, because you must disconnect the AC lines from the evaporator, It took me about 4 hours. The screws are under the dash at each end plus in the middle there is a support brace bracket.
OK i just spent three hours with tha same problem really. i removed casing around steering column done by removing 4 screws on the underside. the bottom half of the dash is also done up by a series of screws remove these also. Once bottom half of dash is removed there will be clips holding head unit in push these in and head unit should slide straight out. :)
For location and replacement of the BMR. Remove the shroud below the glove box, 2 screws and a snap-pop fitting. Be careful of the courtesy light. Remove the blower moter and disconnect the power harness - - you'll need this extra room to work with. 2 more screws, same size, 7/32, 6.5, 7or 8mm on some, that holds the blower motor resistor in place. This replacement part is less than 40 bones at most parts store. Unplug, replace, re-install, test and you're on your way with about 2 hours of slow paced effort in your own driveway. Typical cost at a garage/dealer - up to $400.