Question about 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

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Clutch slave hydraulic retainer clip not avail.

I had the clutch line leading into the clutch slave on my ranger ripped out, got new line, cannot buy clip without slave. 1994 4.0L V6 Ford 5 speed. I do not want to pay to pull trans as well as for a new slave. This looks like a $2.00 clip to me but I cannot find it. HELP!!

Bob.

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  • ccn7 May 11, 2010

    Did you try a salvage yard?

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    if it was ripped out then the retaining portion of the slave that holds the clip is junk.

  • Bob Vopelak Apr 01, 2012

    Im having the same problem too. Where can I buy a new clip don't want to replace the slave cylinder or buy one just for the clip that would be crazy.!!!!!

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  • 223 Answers

Call you local auto recycler and see if they have what your looking for. It may take a few tries at a few places, but you'll find it.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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2 Answers

I have 94 Mazda mx-3 for the past month or so I've been having problems with my clutch and I notice a big wet stain on the floor mat and carpet I assume its the master cylinder or slave cylinder but I am...


It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange.
The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder.
Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.

Oct 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1988 ford ranger manual truck can not shift


Look and see if there is a second master cylinder under the hood of your truck, near the brake master cylinder, in fornt of the driver's seat.
This would be the clutch master cylinder, and should be slightly smaller than the brake nmaster cylinder.
From your description, that clutch master cylinder may be out of fluid, brake fluid.
Probably your slave cylinder has failed, it is attached to your transmission on the other (lower end) of the brake line from the firewall master cylinder.
Adding brake fluid might get the clutch to work long enough to get your car to a garage or up on some ramps so you can fix it.
Be blessed

Jan 25, 2013 | 1988 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

2 Answers

How do you remove and old hydraulic line of a slave cylinder on a 1992 2WD 4.0L Cherokee so that the new one can be installed?


i dont think you are supposed to remove it. they come with a hose master and slave cyl all put together.
i did get one aprt once and i think there was a roll pin i pulled out to do it

Mar 20, 2010 | 1992 Jeep Cherokee Limited

2 Answers

How do adjust the clutch it catch's at the top of my 1990 ford rager


There is no adjustment to the ranger clutch as it is hydraulic if it is giving additional resistance in the peddle you probably need a new master or slave cylinder.

Mar 07, 2010 | 1989 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

No clutch response


I would check for a restriction between the Clutch Master Cyl. & the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I don't know if it's cold where you are but I've experienced a few Clutch slave cylinders that seemed to freeze, leak out & then continue to leak until replaced. Undoubtedly due to moisture in the systems. You could have a helper assist you in bleeding the slave cylinder, if you notice resistance at first, there could be something in the line from when the previous Master cylinder went bad that just got lodged in the system & didn't show up until now.

If you have no pressure whatsoever, lodging isn't the issue, attempt to bleed the system & then look for leaks at the boot of the slave cylinder. This will also confirm that the Clutch Master Cylinder is functioning properly.

Good luck

Jan 06, 2010 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

6 Answers

My 1994 ford rangers clutch pedal just lost all pedal


There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.

Oct 14, 2009 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

2003 Ford Ranger-5 Speed. At times is very hard to get into gear


Your clutch is not releasing all the way. (Assuming the problem is not internal to the transmission) Bleed the system. If that doesn't work, rebuild the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and bleed again.

Aug 12, 2009 | 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

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