- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This is a very common failure, depending on the year of your truck. Check the fuse panel under the hood VERY CLOSELY and make sure there is no corrosion AT ALL, and that each and every fuse/relay is seated nice and tight and in the correct spot. Pay close attention to fuse #23 and the surrounding areas as that is usually part of the problem. Further more, the wiring up to this panel needs to be traced back, and i believe that there's a loom that goes through the firewall and can be exposed/rubbed/chaffed/ in the driver side wheel well, especially if there is aftermarket or bigger wheels installed. finally, any malfunction indicator lights? any fault codes? how long has this been happening? and has it continued to get worse. Please Advise, we are here to help.
Try checking power and grounds to the switch. If good replace switch. If no power or ground check for broken wires in door hinge area. As for the radio, I do not believe it is on circuit with the mirrors, Thus a seperate issue. probably the radio itself.
Try using a jumper wire n test light to see if mirror switch is juiced n transmitting power on & off. If no current thru switch, then may change out. If power is transmitting; do same to mirror silanoid, motor. If direct current to motor & no movement? I ld replace motor. If both check out, then start traceing out wire; cuz its got short in it. Best way; if able or find someone u trust& have em use an Ohm meter. It ll let u know if wires are grounding out n if switch or motor good.
Good Luc: BamBam
If none of the mirrors or locks work, then you will very likely find a blown MIR/LCK Fuse #7 (10 Amp) in the underhood fuse block. If this is the case, you need to find out WHY the fuse blew because if you simply replace it, it will most likely do it again. Otherwise, the locks and mirrors also connect to the Body Control Module (BCM). I would recommend scanning the BCM for fault codes.
The windows are a completely separate circuit. They have nothing in common with the mirrors or locks other than than that they all ultimately get power from the battery and the circuits run through the umbilicals that go between the body and the doors.
If none of the windows are working, the most likely cause is an open power circuit or open ground circuit at the driver's door. This could be either a bad master control switch or is could be that the wires inside the umbilical are broken (fairly common).
Try to measure the voltage while operating the switch. If still no power, manually apply voltage to the hot side of one of the mirrors then operate the switch, both mirrors should also work then. You can fix it this way just make sure you use fuse along the wiring. About 10 amps should be about the right rating.
i would check the switch first and also the passenger side door jamb wire harness also i know it sounds simple but ALWAYS check ALL of you fuses before beginning any electrical fault tracing, try removing the switch and identify which wire powers the mirror and manually jump power with a paper clip to the mirror in question there should only be three wires one will have power and the others will be left and right mirror retraction if this works your switch is bad if not go to the mirror and power that manually and if no dice you got a bad motor -jeff