Question about 1999 Chevrolet Tracker
I bought my 1999 chevy tracker in October from a dealership, when i brought the truck to my mechanic he said he didn't like the way it shifted from 2nd to 3rd. So my parents thought that was no big deal, but lately it has been bad. When i put my foot all the way down on the acce. it is delayed in picking up the speed, it made a screaming sound. Everytime i go fast the car is delayed in shifting and it pushes.. the truck like joults you back, and the truck makes a screaming sound. I brought the truck to the dealerships mechanics and they said that the tranny was deffinately going to blow by January also they put a piece in to make the truck drive a little bit smoother (This was in December). So i brought it back the end of January and they had the car for two weeks. They told me it was deffinately a tranny service, the mechanic tells me he went to GMC and Chevy and supposively all trackers have this problem with the truck. I want to know if that is true for all trackers, and what i can do to fix the problem.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I don't know if your vehicle is a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. This will make a difference in the # of cylinders as well as the placement. If it is the 4 c ylinder when you open the hood it says at Autozone.com that the spark plugs are on the front of the motor lined up 1-4. If it is the 6 cylinder then you will have 3 at the front of the motor and 3 at the back of the motor. Regardless it is the same concept. I don't know for this particular vehicle, but it is possible you may have to remove a large plastic engine covering in order to access the spark plugs. What I recommend is to replace the spark plug wires at the same time as the plugs. For all my vehicles I use NGK plugs and NAPA auto parts has the best plug wires I have used - Belden Maxx. Prior to starting you will want to check the "GAP" on each new spark plug. Using a spark plug gap tool available at parts places for about $1. Take the new plug and the non-porcelin end (the end that has the arc) insert the arc into the gap tool at the lowest end and slide the plug around until you reach the corresponding "GAP". For this vehicle it should be .44" (I checked on Autozone's website but you may want to check to be sure. At some of the part's places they may tell you that you don't have to check the gap, but believe me you alway's should. I just did a car where they insisted that I didn't need to check the gap and each plug was not gapped properly. The Arc on the plug has to be specific for your vehicle or you will have too much spark or not enough. After gapping the new plugs you are ready to start. Somewhere on the side of the motor you should see either 4 or 6 wires/cables branching out to the cylinders. Starting with whichever you prefer (do only one at a time to avoid confusion) trace the wire/cable to the cylinder and where it goes to the cylinder a "boot" covers the spark plug. Twist the boot until it comes off . If you are going to replace the plug wires take that one off and match it up to your new set (They will be different lengths). You will need a ratchet and a spark plug socket (available at parts places) The spark plug socket has rubber on the inside to protect the porcelin of the spark plug, and to provide grip. You may or may not need a small extension. Place the spark plug socket over the end of the spark plug and apply pressure until the spark plug begins to loosen. You may have to apply quite a bit of pressure if they are in there tight. Once it is loosened take the old plug out, and place the new plug in the spark plug socket. Don't use the ratchet at this point, just begin to thread the plug in by hand once it is in there as much as you can get it, tighten it down with the ratchet making sure not to over-tighten. Do the other cylinders in the same manner.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
1 st did you fill the transmission after radiator replace ment some lines go to the rad. when you loose fluid it needs to be added and checked. Other wise it sounds like a trans needs to bo serviced.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
I had the very same problem with my 94 tracker and it turned out to be something simple. My check engine light had popped on after it had hit 100,000. I went through all of the suggestions that people had suggested (unplug battery......etc) and still to no avail. Searching the internet, I came across a website called suzukiforum.com and there, this guy was able to help me with my problem. It turned out to be a maintenance switch that kicks on every 50,000 miles. This switch is like a secret that the auto manufactures use to ploy owners of their cars to bring to the dealer and then rack up the dollars in unnecessary "repairs". The switch is located under the dash and can be hidden anywhere. From the assistance of the guy on the forum, he was able to send me photos of this damn switch and possible locations where it may be mounted. I found mine in about 5 minutes, where it was attached to the steering column. It's a tiny switch, that you slide up or down, depending on what position it is in upon finding it. If it's up, then slide it in the down position and visa versa. Once you do this, the check engine light will go off. Make sure you do not have the car running and you can even unhook one of the battery posts, just to make sure you don't hit anything while rooting around under the dash. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
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